1979 Lincoln Continental CS, Engine problems, Plz help

[Cgpenna]

I am new to the site and I am hoping that someone here can help me. Long story short. My Uncle gave me a 1979 Lincoln continental with 46,000 miles. I wanted to sell it, but he is sick now and that’s all I want to is get this thing running good and do a full restoration inside and out. We own Banquet halls and we have 2 car shows every year. I want to surprise him with his fully restored and even modified 1979 Lincoln Continental Collector series.

However, I can’t seem to get the car running good enough to invest more money into it. With 46,000, I figured at least the engine should be in decent shape considering it spent most its life parked outside. I have had, the gas tank dropped and cleaned, New filters, new spark plugs, new vacuum lines(which I believe are hooked up wrong) new carbuerator, new voltage regulator, battery, starter relay( solenoid), alternator, new shocks, suspension, transmission, fix due to bad seals, tires and a ton of electrical that I have done myself.

Which leads me to my current problem. I had most work done by professionals, however a friend who claims he knew the car reran vacuum lines and tried Tuning my 2150 motorcraft carbuerator. It was running descent a little backfire and hesitation but it ran. Now he has touched the fast idle cam settings, the choke cap, idle screw and one air/gas mixture screw on passenger side because he could not find the driver side mixture screw. So now the car barely starts, it’s sputtering rocking when it does start, if I just tap the gas very quickly it stalls and even if he tries to smoothen the mixture/ screw it sounds and runs descent for about 10 to 15 minutes and then goes into a chopped muffler sound and sounds like it is almost going to stall.


There is good compression and no vacuum leaks and the timing is correct as well. I just need some help getting this car back on track so that I get it into the body shop and interior specialist. I have everything budged out and can not afford to bring it in for another 500 hundred dollars for some mechanic to tell me he tried but he didn’t understand the vacuum lines and returns it to me. Pretty sad I live in Detroit and not one mechanic wants to deal with this car and that’s without seeing it. I will take any advise. I will drive or ship the car where ever I have I must to finish this for my uncle. I could use any advise at this point on how to adjust the choke and idle cam and whatever else needs to be done. I am not great with cars but I have learned a lot about this Lincoln in the last 6 months, so any advise or directions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your Time

[Dan Szwarc]

Now he has touched the fast idle cam settings, the choke cap, idle screw and one air/gas mixture screw on passenger side because he could not find the driver side mixture screw.

Wut?

[Cgpenna]

Ok sorry if I am facing the carbuerator from the front of my car the mixture screw on the right. Either it’s too far under that I can’t see or could the screw fall out. I could take a picture to show you.

[Dan Szwarc]

They’re both there. It’s symmetrical.

I am also scared that your friend reran the vacuum lines without bypassing or messing something up. These cars are notorious for the high amount of spiderwebbed vacuum lines for all of the various emissions and control systems.

Everything had a purpose.

But the first thing is to balance that carb and those fuel/air mixture screws.

Welcome to the forum. Your uncle will be proud you took in such a venture. I hope he improves to see your work.

[1Bad55Chevy]

I would start by disconnecting all the vacuum lines from the engine and get it running properly and go from there.

Dan, what all emissions systems were on these cars in 79?

[Dan Szwarc]

EGR and air pump only, really. The rest was just vacuum control such as timing delay valves, TVS-controlled cold air intake, Vacuum delay valves to the carb, and a few other I forget.

Don’t forget the 79s had only the 400 two-barrel and was the weakest it would ever be. My 77 was the only 400 worth driving with the 4-barrel Offenhauser manifold and full 2.5” dual exhaust. I miss that car.

[Lee]

I do hope you can find someone who really understands these cars, because I'm betting it's something simple.

The most common problem I had with these mid to late 70's Ford engines is easily the EGR valve. Carbon builds up in the passages and then a chunk will break off and get under the EGR pintle, and the effect is like a big constant vacuum leak, except it is pulling in exhaust fumes. It's easy to remove and inspect. If that is it, exercise the valve with some vacuum, and break the chunk away. Once it seats and doesn't leak anymore, plug that vacuum line, and don't hook it up again.

[Cgpenna]

Well, I had to take the distributor cap off and stuck my hand back there and I was able to find it. I have them both set to 2 and a half and it’s seems resonablely smooth. However, I was wondering what the idle speed is listed as from the manufacturer in gear and not in gear. I heard they run low around 550 to 650 so I have mine at 6 and a quarter and not in gear 7 and a quarter. I was wondering if anyone knows the recommend specs. Also, the choke seems off. Can anyone tell me what the cap should be turned to on an 2150 motorcraft carb and how to properly adjust the idle cam. It’s about 55 to 65 degrees here. Not even sure if that matters. However there is still some stubble and I just can’t seem to get it smoothened out. I do know there is minimal to no vacuum leaks so it must be choke, carb or mixture I am guessing. Thank you for your time.

I forgot I replaced the EGR valve which I think is the one in the back of the carb. However I do have a carb port on the passenger side near the front corner of the carb. I assume that one is the egr port, I am hoping.

[Lee]

However, I was wondering what the idle speed is listed as from the manufacturer in gear and not in gear. I heard they run low around 550 to 650 so I have mine at 6 and a quarter and not in gear 7 and a quarter. I was wondering if anyone knows the recommend specs. Also, the choke seems off. Can anyone tell me what the cap should be turned to on an 2150 motorcraft carb and how to properly adjust the idle cam. It’s about 55 to 65 degrees here. Not even sure if that matters.

I don’t recommend using the index marks on the choke. The old bimetal springs usually aren’t calibrated after 40+ years. Do this: on a cool 50-60F morning after the car is parked outside overnight with the engine cold, loosen the three screws on the cap until you can rotate it. Then open the throttle about half-way and rotate the cap until the choke plate is just lightly closed. Tighten the screws. Pump the accelerator once or twice, then start the car. Fast idle speed on the top of the cam should then be in the 1500-2000 RPM neighborhood, then blip the throttle, and fast idle speed should drop to approx. 1000-1200. Once the engine is warmed up, the choke should be completely off, and the car idling around 600 -800 RPM. Adjust if necessary…

The aim of this is not to get right in the middle of a spec…the choke setting and the fast idle settings should ideally be as lean and slow as possible, consistent with the car not dying on cold startup. Hot idle is also not critical, I usually just run what feels smooth to me (typically 600 -750 rpm in park).

[frasern]

In a different direction, the pot metal plate, under the carb (EGR plate), will develop a hole, normally you will hear exhaust, but sometimes not. Replace that if it is original, replacements are steel.
I completely agree with Lee, I don't really trust index marks on chokes. But also check that air is able to get through the choke stove, or add an electric choke kit.
And, if you have a dual diaphragm distributer, make sure the hoses are not reversed.