66 Continental Power Steering Line

[Emas9420]

Hi All,

issue today - while driving I had an issue with my power steering leaking. When I checked I noticed it was a tiny pinhole leak from the rubber part of the hose that goes from the power steering box to the cowl(assuming its the wiper motor).

My issue is that i can not find this hose anywhere. The only thing that comes close is this one - and it is wrong anyways (wrong shape) https://www.larrystbird.com/product/b17 ... iper-hose/

Anyone know where i can get one? i tried the usual's but couldn't find it.. maybe I'm searching "power steering line" when i should be searching "wiper motor line".. not sure.

if anyone knows id appreciate the help. or is it possible to take this to someone to just replace the rubber part? Although i'd rather buy it new.

EDIT**- can i just plug one side (or both) of the wiper motor and plug the steering box? if so, what size are the fittings? i don't mind not having wipers - i live in soflo, it hardly rains around this time.

***EDIT*** - I think i may have found it - i believe it is this hose. https://lincolnlandinc.com/product/ss-ho66gtwss6/
Goes from the right side of the wiper unit to the steering box.. this is correct right?

[TonyC]

I had a similar ordeal with that hose about 14 years ago: The rubber portion blew out while I was driving. My ultimate solution, after a makeshift splice to tide me over, was to take the blown hose to a hydraulic shop to have it reproduced.

You can't really cut off the wiper motor or gearbox without compromising your ability to steer, except by making new lines...and if you do that, you might as well have the new lines made to original specs.

Now, if you have the opportunity to get a new one, take it! In fact, if they have more than one available, I may have an interest in one myself.

---Tony

[LithiumCobalt]

Try Inline Tube or Classic Tube. Either one or both were making this line at one time.

[Emas9420]

I had a similar ordeal with that hose about 14 years ago: The rubber portion blew out while I was driving. My ultimate solution, after a makeshift splice to tide me over, was to take the blown hose to a hydraulic shop to have it reproduced.

You can't really cut off the wiper motor or gearbox without compromising your ability to steer, except by making new lines...and if you do that, you might as well have the new lines made to original specs.

Now, if you have the opportunity to get a new one, take it! In fact, if they have more than one available, I may have an interest in one myself.

---Tony

I wonder what people do when they switch over the wipers to electric wipers? That's why I was curious to see if maybe it was as easy as capping off the ports..

anyways i won't be doing that but check this link out Tony.. this seems to be the correct hose right? it looks good to me, just wanted an experts opinion. https://lincolnlandinc.com/product/ss-ho66gtwss6/

[TonyC]

I dread to think; though possible now, it's just pointless to convert to electric. Hydraulic parts are still acquirable, and the hydraulic system works great: The blades can sweep faster than any electric system ever could. Such conversions are just-because conversions, not "upgrades."

Yes, that line is correct. A lucky find, I think, because that was nowhere to be found when I needed one 14 years ago (though I did get it reproduced). That line was not the same as later years' applications.

For a quick (and long-term) fix that's the way to go. For a backup further in the future, you can also get the old one repaired or reproduced by a good hydraulic shop. With the new one in place, that can give you time to find such a shop.

---Tony

[papawayne]

Ditto what Tony says, my wipers even go really slow like intermittent wipers would, and this is the original setup. Wayne

[LithiumCobalt]

While I’m for staying original when possible, I don’t consider the over-engineering of the hydraulic wiper system on these cars superior. The pumps are picky as hell and there are almost no good cores left. Couple that with the miles of extra hoses needed and trouble-prone wiper motors, valves and switches and electric is the clear winner, in my opinion. More reliable, simpler interval option and you can actually run the engine even with a failure whereas if you have a pump seize up, you ain’t going anywhere.

[frasern]

When designed, hydraulic wipers were far superior to vacuum wipers, and the variable speed was better than the electric wipers that were becoming common. When intermittent wipers came on line, in the late '60s, they were simpler and cheaper, so the hydraulic wipers became obsolete. But the cool factor of slowing them down to almost nothing really freaks some people out! A conversion makes sense with an engine swapped car though.

[Lee]

There aren't too many parts on the '62 that I've not had the occasion to remove and/or replace for some reason or another, but the wiper motor is still as it was torqued in place by Wixom. I remember adjusting the number of washer wipes shortly after I got it, but even that hasn't required any more tweaking since.

I really think the key is to not neglect changing the fluid and filter at regular intervals.

[LithiumCobalt]

For the record, the original hydraulic system worked fine on both of my 67’s and being a stickler for originality I’d never change it. I can recognize technology evolving into something better, though.

[TonyC]

Well, as a counter-point but acknowledging Nick where appropriate, the pumps will cause a disabling situation regardless of the wiper system; blades sweeping will be the least of one's worries when a pump failure occurs. That said, the crank pumps are likely what Nick was referring to; he's right, they are very fussy. However, where cores are concerned, they are still very much out and about. What I've experienced in my own exams, I think the critical part of the core is the bronze bushing in the center, which the impeller sleeve slides through: When that bushing or the sleeve warps due to overheating (which is caused by unaddressed fluid starvation), that puts the pump out of service. Now, rebuild kits with new bushings are available; the trick is that the shop manuals give no guidance on how to replace it. With my first venture in swapping out that bushing, which was in fact necessary when the old bushing came out with the impeller sleeve, I made notes in my '67 shop manual on how to do that job properly. I think that sort of knowledge in our circle, plus the continued availability of the more-involved rebuild kits, can address the issue of pump cores.

Now, the wiper motors are a different story. There's no way I'm aware of to fully disassemble those, and I'm also not aware of anyone (not even the Usual Suspects, though I may be wrong on that–would be nice to be) who can rebuild these motors when they spring leaks. I suffered such a leak some years ago; but the replacement I pulled from an organ donor was still operational and fluid-tight. I also have another spare I acquired afterward, though untested due to the line fittings having been sawed through (! !). But I think I can remove those and swap in good fittings, and hopefully have a good motor on hand should the lever seal of the one in service give way.

I should clarify something. I do maintain that the hydraulic system, however obsolete, is superior to any electric job save for the interval control, which is admittedly easier to set on the electric jobs; but that superiority is dependent on the integrity of the rest of the steering system. If it's fluid-tight, the wiper system can never go wrong. If it has leakage problems, as most do I regret to admit, you will have some problems.

---Tony

[Emas9420]

Ok, i got the hose pretty quick since I'm also here in florida and i replaced it yesterday. Wasn't an EXACT fit, but i made it work..

I filled up the reservoir and tried to bleed it as best i could (turning the steering lock to lock + running the wipers).

I noticed (and maybe this is normal but never realized before), that while the wipers are running at top speed, the steering wheel becomes almost impossible to turn (while parked).. I had to bring up the revs if i wanted the wipers on at full and turn the wheels at the same time.

I also noticed that if the wipers are on half speed, turning is a bit hard but makes the wipers stop moving or move real slow.

Is this normal operation? i imagine it is considering that they share the same system.. It's a little odd if you ask me. OR is it that the system is not bled properly? and if not, how do i bleed it so this does not happen?

[Lee]

Ok, i got the hose pretty quick since I'm also here in florida and i replaced it yesterday. Wasn't an EXACT fit, but i made it work..

I filled up the reservoir and tried to bleed it as best i could (turning the steering lock to lock + running the wipers).

I noticed (and maybe this is normal but never realized before), that while the wipers are running at top speed, the steering wheel becomes almost impossible to turn (while parked).. I had to bring up the revs if i wanted the wipers on at full and turn the wheels at the same time.

I also noticed that if the wipers are on half speed, turning is a bit hard but makes the wipers stop moving or move real slow.

Is this normal operation? i imagine it is considering that they share the same system.. It's a little odd if you ask me. OR is it that the system is not bled properly? and if not, how do i bleed it so this does not happen?

That’s not normal. I can tell no difference in steering effort or wiper speed based on engine speed, or what is operating at any time. I would suggest that you double check the fluid level, look for foaming, then look for a kinked or collapsed line (even on the return side) A dirty, clogged filter could also do it.

If you find no restrictions in the system, the pump could be worn, and not delivering adequate pressure/volume. But I’d get a hydraulic pressure gauge and check before getting in that deep.

[papawayne]

John Brewer has the parts. Wayne

[TonyC]

Question: Is that only with the wipers running, or do you also happen to notice a bit of resistance regardless, while the car is stationary? Have you ever done anything about the spacers that attach the gearbox to the subframe?

If the answer to the last question is no, then that's something that needs to be remedied. I've explained why in the past. John Brewer also has kits to remedy that situation; so does M2E, though their design is different.

---Tony