New Owner: 1979 Mark V Bill Blass from France

[Elvis From Paris]

I don't think it is easy to crank the odometer around to the reading to match your original without damaging it. However, if you do, take pictures or make a video of how you do it!

I will not try anything my self; guys, I'm the worst handyman on earth! trust me ! you give me something to repair, I'll give it back to you more broken than before! so I won't try to repair anything on my car myself. (I tried when I was younger, it could still work, I had time and patience, today I no longer have either!!) the only thing I'm going to allow me to change it myself, because I have done it several times on my previous american cars and I was proud to have saved a visit to the mechanic, it is to change the electric motor of the window.

[Elvis From Paris]

Enter Nanny-Mode:

Changing the odometer on a vehicle can get you into tricky situations if not handled per your local laws and regulations. In the US, it's illegal to tamper or change the odometer reading without somehow indicating that it has been done. "Rolling back" the odometer is a common way to increase a vehicle's value, but in the case of your 44 year-old Lincoln, again, you may wish to check into your local laws.

End Nanny-Mode

Run a test using your phone as GPS. Note the odometer reading then drive 1-10km, preferably in a more or less straight direction. Now compare how far you travelled to the odometer reading. Does it match your GPS in kilometers? If it doesn't, is the difference times 1.6 equal to the distance in kilometers (1.6km per mile).

Now you know if the odometer registers miles or kilometers.

That said, do whatever you want to do, but be careful when disassembling the dash to remove the speedometer assembly. If you crack the white plastic mounting sections, or find cracks, repair them using superglue and baking soda per this thread: Tip for Plastic repair, cracked, broken, missing pieces

Hi Dan,
I think you misunderstandood me, I don't want to change the current and actual mileage of my car, I want to take advantage of the opportunity to put a speedometer in kilometers on it, but I don't want this meter has more miles than the car actually has and I definitely don't want to take any away from it either.

regarding the laws here, the car has "collector vehicle" documents so the only thing for which there is a serious risk of getting me into trouble is for the American style license plates, with French numbers. the fine is 100 dollars per plate! with possible immobilization of the car. you would still have to come across a hell of an asshole, but they are... everywhere! we are surrounded! ahahah

[frasern]

By the time you get the speedo, it will show 00000, But I'm not saying how.

[Elvis From Paris]

By the time you get the speedo, it will show 00000, But I'm not saying how.

Hi Fraser, what will happen if i disconnect one of the vaccum pompe's pipe of the head lights doors ?? once i will remove it the doors will shut down ? if i reconnect it, will it work as before ? i tasted mine, they stay closed for less than one night

[frasern]

Portes ovrir nes pas vacuum, ferme avec vacuum. (I hope that's right)
Replace all your rubber hoses for the vacuum headlights, they leak as they age.

[Elvis From Paris]

Portes ovrir nes pas vacuum, ferme avec vacuum. (I hope that's right)
Replace all your rubber hoses for the vacuum headlights, they leak as they age.

oh ok so if i disconnect them, it won't change anything they are ope they will stay open

ok i will first change all of them.

but my 79 BB has the automatic headlights, so i think there's an extra solenoid somewhere under the dashboard or near the high beam, near the brakes pedal. right ? should i also change it ? is it "easy" to find ? Merci

by the way, your french is not so bad, need more practice ! come to paris and help me to fix the head lights doors ! ahahah

[Dan Szwarc]

It’s almost never the vacuum hoses for the headlamp actuators that leak. For used very thick, high quality hoses.

I would not touch the hoses except to cut off the last 2.5cm of hose to reconnect. Routing new hoses properly is very difficult.

The leaks usually occur at the headlamp switch, the vacuum reserve tank, the check valve, or the actuator o-ring seals around the shaft.

At this age, rusty actuators also develop pin holes on the bottoms.

[frasern]

I am not familiar with the automatic headlight system, so will offer no advice there except test all the vacuum components with a vacuum pump, the parts are expensive. But look at the hoses first, and the override valve, I will see if I can get a picture of that.
Yes, if the hoses are still soft, they need not be replaced, but pull the ends off the fittings and trim a little if it looks stretched, and add a little silicon oil before re-attaching. Especially, look for cracks.

[Elvis From Paris]

Guys, i need help again, i feel stupid to ask this; but i spent 20 minutes to try to change my whippers !! and i wasn't successful; there's surely an easy solution, but i must be totally dumb.

i can't remove them from the arm. i think they are around 20 years old ! should i just pull them or there's a secret thing to do ??

[Elvis From Paris]

It’s almost never the vacuum hoses for the headlamp actuators that leak. For used very thick, high quality hoses.

I would not touch the hoses except to cut off the last 2.5cm of hose to reconnect. Routing new hoses properly is very difficult.

The leaks usually occur at the headlamp switch, the vacuum reserve tank, the check valve, or the actuator o-ring seals around the shaft.

At this age, rusty actuators also develop pin holes on the bottoms.

HI Dan, thanks for your answer. i ve checke the hose, they "look" good and not so dry. my BB comes from Texas, and has only 31.900 miles, and former french owners took good care of it. i'll take a photo of the motor. so i think that you might be right about one of those parts that is the source of the problem. if it's not too boring, and if you have the same car in your garage, could you take photos of the parts that you talk about , cause, except the headlamp switch, i dont know where are located the other parts... my model has also the automatic headlight. with can be also another place to find the problem.... i think i know where is it. thanks !

[Elvis From Paris]

I am not familiar with the automatic headlight system, so will offer no advice there except test all the vacuum components with a vacuum pump, the parts are expensive. But look at the hoses first, and the override valve, I will see if I can get a picture of that.
Yes, if the hoses are still soft, they need not be replaced, but pull the ends off the fittings and trim a little if it looks stretched, and add a little silicon oil before re-attaching. Especially, look for cracks.

Fraser, there's soooooo many hoses that goes to the vacuum pump; ahahah

[Dan Szwarc]

I think all you need is a flat screwdriver.

Yours don't look factory. Look on the underside. Otherwise, try pulling firmly.

[frasern]

Both vacuum pots, (actually called motors) were destroyed on my car, so no help there.

But here are the hoses that remain, the metal part, below hinge spring, is a one way valve and seems to work still, the plastic part, set on the fender, is the override valve, it can be turned so as to keep the doors open, this one is leaking, and this could be the faulty part in your system as well.

I would just replace it with 2 straight splices, it really isn't needed, at least in my opinion. And below are the parts I removed today, the tool on the right is the vacuum pump I was trying to describe, you can test individual components with it, to see if they hold, thus ruling out one part at a time.

The loop is damaged where it clicks together (gap at top) so will need to be glued together once the seatbelt is in place. The switch at the top is for the rear defrost, it is a b**** to get at, so I hope that's not your problem, check your switch for power when you have the cluster out. The other 2 components are the items I described in the middle photo.
All vacuum hoses have a coloured stripe, the components have ink dots in the same colour, where the hose attaches.

[Elvis From Paris]

Both vacuum pots, (actually called motors) were destroyed on my car, so no help there.DSCF9167.JPG
But here are the hoses that remain, the metal part, below hinge spring, is a one way valve and seems to work still, the plastic part, set on the fender, is the override valve, it can be turned so as to keep the doors open, this one is leaking, and this could be the faulty part in your system as well.DSCF9170.JPG
I would just replace it with 2 straight splices, it really isn't needed, at least in my opinion. And below are the parts I removed today, the tool on the right is the vacuum pump I was trying to describe, you can test individual components with it, to see if they hold, thus ruling out one part at a time.DSCF9172.JPG
The loop is damaged where it clicks together (gap at top) so will need to be glued together once the seatbelt is in place. The switch at the top is for the rear defrost, it is a b**** to get at, so I hope that's not your problem, check your switch for power when you have the cluster out. The other 2 components are the items I described in the middle photo.
All vacuum hoses have a coloured stripe, the components have ink dots in the same colour, where the hose attaches.

Hi Fraser and first of all a Merry Christmas to you and all the members !

thanks for your precious answers and help; sincerly; i'm soooo happy to have had the good idea to register on the forum. i don't know how i will be able to help you back; but who knows; one day maybe. if you come to visit Paris.

i will follow your advice for the overdrive valve. where can i find those 2 straight splices ? (i have no idea how to call it in french and then search for it on the web)

[Elvis From Paris]

HAPPY NEW YEAR to all of you guys

thanks for the help that a few of you gave me in their answers those past weeks.

and here is a picture of my 79 Bill Blass in Paris