82 ecc iii distributor firing order/timing

[Lee]

Mark, who knows what’s original to the car at this point, but one fail-safe method to resolve this is get the engine right on TDC for #1. If you can do that, then open the cap, and trace the spark discharge path to #1 (identified on the cap).

One of the rotor terminals SHOULD be close to, and picking the spark up from one of the four exposed terminals in the very top of the cap, then delivering it to the #1 terminal. And the rotor contacts on the opposite side should NOT be close to any of the cap contacts (which would cause crossfire in another cylinder)

If the rotor is not in position to deliver the spark correctly, then somebody probably had the distributor out, and put it back in wrong. It’s even possible that somebody did that, then rather than pulling it out again, just rewired the cap to match where the new rotor position was, and #1 is no longer #1.

[Mark6]

Ok I'm going to have one of my buddies help me this weekend hope we can get it going

[Mark6]

Question if I did want to change out the distributor do I need to replace with exact same one or can I do a performance one? Like a upgrade, I'm almost thinking about switching over to a edelbrock intake and carburetor

[Lee]

Question if I did want to change out the distributor do I need to replace with exact same one or can I do a performance one? Like a upgrade, I'm almost thinking about switching over to a edelbrock intake and carburetor

Any small block Ford distributor should drop in. You need one that has a centrifugal and vacuum advance built in, because the EEC system will no longer work correctly, and ignition advance will have to happen mechanically. That means you’ll HAVE to change to a carburetor as well, since the CFI relies on all the inputs to feed fuel correctly.

You’ll have to do some rewiring, but that basically what I did with the wife’s Versailles years ago. I dropped in an old point distributor from an early Mustang, and replaced the VV feedback carb with a crusty old 2100 from the same car. Never ran better.

[TonyC]

Yes, that was kind of the fix my grand resorted to when every Ford-affiliated dealer waved her off about the '82 Humpback's VV. She resorted to a mechanic whom she trusted, who swapped in a German carburetor. We lost absolutely all dash info save for the odometer as a consequence, no longer knowing how fast we were going or how much gas was left; but at least the car ran.

I'd advise against any so-called "upgrades," because if they compromise the integrity or operation of anything in the car, no matter how trivial, it's no upgrade. And those computers are rather persnickety regarding what they'll work with.

---Tony

[Mark6]

I wonder if finding a 351 would be better or newer 5.0 motor from a mustang

[Mark6]

I'm really about to say I'm just going to LS swap this thing in a minute

[Mark6]

Still no progress due to rain here but what does these numbers mean in the intake?? https://freeimage.host/i/JTAQaLP

[Lee]

Not familiar to me. It’s not a part number.

[Mark6]

I was trying to find the firing order on the Intake just too see if it was the original motor or a swapped 351

[Lee]

It’ll usually be toward the rear, like in this picture.

[Mark6]

Oh wow thank you. I swear I seen some that was on the front but thank you for the picture

[frasern]

I think that's the expiry date (kidding, Lincolns don't expire)
Look for a decal on the valve cover, that will show the model year. A 351 intake is visibly wider.

[1Bad55Chevy]

I wonder if finding a 351 would be better or newer 5.0 motor from a mustang

The million dollar question here...

Where do you find one of these motors used that doesn't have 500,000,000 miles on it? Ford hasn't made a pushrod v8 in like 30 years!

[Lee]

Chevy, you forget how many millions of 5.0 Mustangs are still around.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/par ... e/5-0l-302