1966 Lincoln Continental Timing Chain Replacement

[LithiumCobalt]

Unless it was something specific to the ‘66, I don’t think anything goes into the lower hole on the water pump. Neither of my 67s had anything there

[frasern]

Just a guess, it may have been for the thermactor used in California.

[Emas9420]

Ok im glad im not losing my mind then. When i put the water pump in realized the bolts were all a dif size. does the manual specify which goes where? does it matter?

now I just gotta check how to fill my tranny.

[TonyC]

To answer your question, yes, you must use Type F. Anything else will cause problems, unless the transmission had previously been purged to use something else, which I doubt. Luckily, Type F is easy to get; Wal-Mart sells it. You'll add it through the dipstick tube. You have to run the car to operating temperature first, then shift the transmission through all its gears, then check the level on the stick and fill accordingly with the car still running. Don't get careless and overfill it (the dipstick will tell you when it's full).

Bolt sizes were different? That's odd. But what matters is the size and thread pitch of the bolt shafts. Make sure they start properly and don't seize while turning, lest you strip threads on the bolts or in the block.

And no, nothing I know of goes into that highlighted hole, unless Fraser's guess about the Thermactor option is right.

---Tony

[Dan Szwarc]

Remember when I said I wouldn’t ask any more questions?? Well I lied..

I almost finished but got rained on and lost daylight..

I did enough work where I was able to start the car (no radiator or auxiliaries so I only ran it for about 1 minute) to check for leaks. Everything looks great so far.. it because I hadn’t put the radiator in I didn’t plug the tranny lines and of course it leaked fluid everywhere. I think maybe about a quart came out. So my question now is… do I refill with type f? (Same as power steering)?
I’m assuming I fill through the dipstick right? And I don’t remember off the top of my head but it’s on the passenger side towards firewall yes?

Also, when I put in the water pump I saw this (not my picture).. what’s suppose to mount here? I don’t have any spare bolts so I’m thinking maybe nothing went there? Either that OR it was the coolant reservoir (but if so, I lost the bolt).

Unless it was something specific to the ‘66, I don’t think anything goes into the lower hole on the water pump. Neither of my 67s had anything there

Maybe.

[LithiumCobalt]

There it is. Upper bracket changed in ‘67.

[Dan Szwarc]

And I converted mine to the bigger, bulkier, thicker, crazy heavier bracket.
I was sure mine was not original.

Found this in the 65/66 MPC:

This matches what I have now and what I got off a 67 Parts car. Maybe even a 68 462.

This is what I found in the 60-64 MPC:

So, I'm convinced the arm is for the generator.

Enough thread derailing. I will split this for another topic of discussion.

[Emas9420]

Enough thread derailing. I will split this for another topic of discussion.

I'm sorry please don't be mad
When I'm finished I want to make a long guide with some findings and to expand on the timing chain procedure by one of the other members. So something like this helps me for my guide but you're right.. no more thread derailing.

[Dan Szwarc]

I was talking about my posts. You're fine.

[Emas9420]

So i am finally finished.

The car seems to run GREAT!.
Idling is a bit rough like before. I still have to change spark plug cables and spark plugs. I don't think I'm going to improve the idling too much, but the driving is great and the engine is super quiet now so I'm happy. Still to check is if the overheating issue was resolved or not, although i did narrow that down to the AC compressor.

HOWEVER.... I sprung a leak from where the tranny meets the block.. so, that can only mean the rear seal. I don't know how, but i must have installed it wrong, its leaking not from the middle but rather the right and left side.. so i am thinking it's the side seals (the ones i had trouble with). I ended up buying a new rope seal set and using that, they were shorter but i filled the rest with rtv... maybe i didn't use enough, maybe i installed it wrong.. maybe it was the rear main seal that i installed wrong.. Not sure.

What other thing can it be if not the seal? the oil pan? i need to get under and check but i am pretty sure it's the seal, only drips when the car is running, when the car is off its fine.

I bought at-205.. now, I hate using additives. I've never done it before, but i figured it was my last attempt before reopening the engine and re doing the seal. any advice you guys have?

[TonyC]

I would say the side seals are the biggest oiling headache these engines have, especially since the two methods used to make them don't really provide perfect sealing. There used to be another method, with hard, shrunken seals (for lack of a better term, "dehydrated") that would slide into the bearing grooves and, once oil soaked them, would expand in place and fully seal up. Being that replacing oil seals is not meant to be a regular-maintenance job, it was immaterial that they may have made it harder to remove the bearing cap.

If the leak is only slight dripping when running and no dripping when not running, I'd suggest you at least try something I know you don't like: A leak-stopping additive. I've used it before, and it seemed to help my engine. If it works, then great. If not, you can either try redoing the side seals, or live with it and just make more frequent oil-level checks.

---Tony

[frasern]

If those side seals were too short, they may have sold you FE seals, check the part #s. The redneck part of me says It may be possible to cut that rope and put 1/2 in each side, It will swell.

[Emas9420]

If those side seals were too short, they may have sold you FE seals, check the part #s. The redneck part of me says It may be possible to cut that rope and put 1/2 in each side, It will swell.

This is what i used: FEL-PRO BS 11762-3 Rear Main Seal Set
Since i was in a hurry, i just needed side seals that would somewhat work.. Also, because the side seals i got in my original rear seal kit were too thick, so when i hammered them in and then put the pin, it bent and didn't go all the way through.

Car only drips when running, I do wonder if its because i overfilled it with oil (i don't think i did, the dipstick shows "F" but not too much over). I did put AT205 and I'll see if that stops the leaks but i don't think I'll have much luck, it's been week one so we'll see if by week 3 it changes. Otherwise, I'll have to rebuy the seal kit, and do the old trick Tony mentioned of boring out the path where the pins go and RTV and hope for the best.

[frasern]

The 20+ year old fel pro kit I have is numbered 1m 29710, but that may not be correct. anyway, it is 2 27/32 inches long, the instructions state it should protrude slightly. Here it is next to an original one and the cap.

As you can see, the original is a fiber material without the nail, with use it will swell slightly to seal. The Fel pro one is rubber, the nail is inserted on the inside and pushes toward the block.

[Emas9420]

The 20+ year old fel pro kit I have is numbered 1m 29710, but that may not be correct. anyway, it is 2 27/32 inches long, the instructions state it should protrude slightly. Here it is next to an original one and the cap.DSCF9125 - Copy.JPG As you can see, the original is a fiber material without the nail, with use it will swell slightly to seal. The Fel pro one is rubber, the nail is inserted on the inside and pushes toward the block.

The ones i got were also long… but guess it did not work :/ not sure what i should do