Rebuild kit

[TONY NZ 64]

Hi Guys,
I am looking for parts to replace old worn out ones, is this kit a good deal price and quality wise ? Thanks

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192661181689?_ ... %3A2047675

My copy and paste skills are a work in progress

[TonyC]

I would think so; it looks to have most of the suspension/steering parts you'll need...though not all. You will need to source a center link, because if you're running the factory link, it's about to break (there is a way to tell if it has been replaced; if it has been, then disregard unless you notice the same symptoms the OE link gives off). You will also need to source new spacers for the gearbox; those OEs are the cause of your suspension/steering being in need of surgery. For those go either with John Brewer's or Jack Rosen's designs, whichever one can ship to New Zealand. Both designs will eradicate the worst design flaw these cars had, not only protecting your new pieces from wear but also improving your maneuvering response time.

---Tony

[Lee]

I would be concerned about who manufactured the parts, and where were they built. There’s no mention of that anywhere. Probably China. Could be OK, maybe not. I suppose if you have some time, it may be worth looking into. When I rebuilt my front end many years ago, it was almost all Moog US made parts, and they have lasted more miles than the originals.

Rockauto is a good site to just look at all the available manufacturers for a part, so for example if you just search control bushings, you’ll see multiple choices. They usually have the best prices, so you can judge for yourself.

I can’t add much to what Tony said, but do realize that the kit you posted doesn’t have inner tie rods, drag link or idler arm (some of the most expensive parts). It’s possible someone has already replaced the original steering box spacers, and do note that original-style rubber insulators are made by Lares. I recently replaced mine with those, and am quite happy.

[Mike]

That seller has been around for a while but what the parts are is the first thing I wondered too.
Then again when you're dealing with older cars like these the resources are limited and many come from the same manufacturer anyway with multiple resellers offering the same part with sometimes just as many different prices between them.

[TONY NZ 64]

Hi TonyC, Lee and Mike,

Thanks for the great response
I have used Rockauto many times for my Mopars, great results each time. They don't seem to have any ball joints or tie rod ends at present.
Just checked out Mark II Enterprises, wow I will be buying gear off them, thanks for meantioning Jack Rosen.
I would normally buy Moog. Yes be great to know who manufactoring the KIT parts but as you say Mike , there are limited suppliers.
I think the seller has bigger kits avaliable so I better look into those.
Thanks,
Tony

[frasern]

The theory of buying a kit and replacing it all may have worked years ago, but with todays Chinese parts you may be installing parts with less life than what was left in the old ones!
I only replace what is worn out, But that's just me.

[TonyC]

I agree with Fraser. That said, however, there are several parts that must be addressed at the same time, especially if they happen to still be OE factory parts: The lower ball joints, the center link, and the gearbox spacers. Start by assessing and replacing those, you can handle other stuff that comes up.

In my experience, the only time I ever needed an inner tie rod was in 2005, when I made the mistake of trying to make a turn too sharp for the car to handle, and ended up rolling over a high curb, causing my right-front wheel to dangle off the ledge of that curb. The force of the drop bent the Hell out of my inner tie rod on that side. But that was a fluke from a stupid mistake on my part. The outer tie rods, on the other hand, I have had to replace due to wear.

If you aren't sure about a part of that system, disconnect it and assess the ball-socket. If it flops around with no effort, it's worn and needs replacing. If it's tight, it's fine. You might need to replace just the boots to the ball-sockets, which should be doable if new boots can still be had.

One note: The center link will be expensive, as will the lower ball joints. But, the aftermarket actually made upgrades to the OE designs, eliminating the flaws of the OE parts (not that common an occurrence, but true). So, the aftermarket replacements will be superior to the originals, and you should not have to replace them again. Also, getting the solid spacers will prevent any strain or wear on the rest of the steering, and noticeably improve your steering response, which was one of the woes these cars suffered.

---Tony

[frasern]

Yeah, I didn't mean ignore it if it aint broke, verify that everything is sound before investing in an alignment of course.
On my '67, the drag link was the only thing needed, it was okay when I first got the car, but wore out in weeks. Turns out they are just a stud set into plastic, no springs or wear pads, and no way to add grease. When the car was parked, it dried out, so when I started driving it again, it disintegrated. The replacement has a proper ball joint and grease nipple, so if you have a drag link without that left grease fitting, it needs to go.