Convertible Top Deck Lid

[63ragtop]

Hello all;
Have a 63 convertible with a deck lid that is 90 degrees up, flip panel NOT moving.
Anyone know (and can walk me) thru how to "hotwire" it so I can get the da*** panel to move wither way?
If you're in LA and want, my # is 310 804 4495, tomorrow.

Thanks in advance.

JN

[frasern]

A number of things could cause this. try jiggling all the limit switches you can find. Try turning the coupler in the flap motor by hand, do not force anything.
John at Brewer Classic Lincoln is the one to call, he is the "go to" for theese.

[Dan Szwarc]

This picture should help.
I have a bunch of docs for 1963 that is available for $20 through the link in my sig.
I hope you can read a schematic. The relay to jump is shown below. Jumper BLUE to BLUE-WHITE at the relay.

If that doesn't work, you may have to adjust the DECK OPEN LIMIT SWITCH or the BACK PANEL ERECT LIMIT SWITCH to make it work.
jumping the limit switches at the wires indicated will tell you if the switch is bad or just out of adjustment.

[63ragtop]

Hello Dan,
I appreciate your info and the chart you sent.
I DO have the original shop manuals, including the convertible one, but despite being able to do all kinds of repair, have never worked on auto electrical and have no idea of how to read the chart!
Will do my best to figure this out, or try to have a local friend decipher this.
Thanks Again!

[Dan Szwarc]

Do some YouTube videos on how to read electrics schematics with switches and motors for a start. Simple circuits.

Follow the wires and wire colors. Each symbol has a meaning. Some are easy, some are more vague.

[mge825y]

I understand how daunting it can be to figure out these things - even with the manuals.

But I echo what Fraser shared - when in doubt, you can always call John at Brewer Classic Lincoln. He's been a great help to many here.

[63ragtop]

Thank you both! Will look at videos.
Another piece of education to be learned.
And I will call Brewer or Moreno as well, also.
Already missed the summer and So Cal RatFest!

Advice and help appreciated!
J

[Dan Szwarc]

John Brewer should be able to help you without technical jargon. I’m an engineer so I have a hard time reducing what I know down to simpler concepts because I’ve been doing it for so long.

And I talk too much.

[63ragtop]

ok and thanks again! Will set aside some time int he next few days to tackle this.
JN

[63ragtop]

FINALLY... Got my trunk deck lid down on my 63 vert.
How??? How indeed!

it seems that everything is connected as it should be. I finally decided to do try to power the trunk lid down in stages, one portion at a time. I DO have a brand new car battery. After making sure all connections were tight and the up down top switch was working, after the head rail locking in place, I did the flip panel with the top switch. A few days later I tried back and forth on the top switch again but nothing took. Then today I had my wife run the top button (down) and I gently pushed the trunk lid down by hand, from the top edge. After about 10 inches of going down, it finally kicked in and closed. So for now, at least I can drive it.

But thanks to all for suggestions.

Now I will wait a awhile before I do anything again. Though I know ALL switches relays and power lines to top mechanism need to be replaced, that's BIG bucks.

Sorrow of a Vert, and more so of a Lincoln ragtop!

[mge825y]

63ragtop - Glad you got the lid closed. When you get ready to go back through the top components, you mention replacing relays. When I did this, I contacted John at Brewer Classic Lincoln. I took pictures of all the relays in the trunk and behind the back seat. I took a Sharpie pen and numbered them so I knew where they came from. I then sent them to John and he tested and cleaned them for free. I needed one or two replaced that he provided me for the then going cost. This way, I only replaced the ones that truly needed replacing. It saved me a lot of money. PLUS, I knew when I got them back, that they were all in good working order. I mention this because if I were in your shoes, this is how I would approach checking the health of the relays and only replacing the ones that are bad and getting the others cleaned and tested. For what it's worth......

[frasern]

It is hard to diagnose these things remotely. At first it sounded electric, but now seems like a hydraulic issue. I would check the fluid level and colour. Your car used brake fluid when new, some have been converted to ATF, but if a previous owner has mixed the two, that could be gumming up the system.
The earlier cars have a large reservoir, but there is just enough to run things. If it is low it will suck air when it nears its limit, which sounds like what happened. As the lid went down, the pump started pumping again.

[63ragtop]

TO Mark in Charlotte
Have you seen youtube vids by Bubba Sanders? Somewhere in his videos he replaced the relays with new ones that cost (I think he said) about $1 a piece. Wondering if they are any good or do the same job?
Check out his videos (series of 5) about repairing Lincoln convertible top mechanism.
Thanks

[mge825y]

JN - I had not seen Bubba's videos before. But, I just searched for them and found this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4y3VDeT4Ew

What you see is Bubba replacing original Lincoln relays with their own homemade setup. This type of solution, while creative and works, is not a path I would pursue myself. I learned a long time ago that if you stray from the mainstream part replacement and do something custom, then when you have an issue, no one but you knows how to work on it. But that's me and my choice. Everyone is different and approaches their car restoration a little differently.

[LithiumCobalt]

Never really understood the desire to substitute Chi-comm specials in place of the original relays. The originals last only, what? 50-60 years? Can’t see $1 relays with that kind of longevity. Rebuild the originals and they’re good for another fifty years. Also likely way more heavy duty and overbuilt than anything available today. Obviously your car and money though.