Let the games begin...Nick's 67 sedan

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RMAENV
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Re: Let the games begin...Nick's 67 sedan

Post by RMAENV »

Looks much better now that the shoes match the rest of the wardrobe :D
Rob
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John Mc
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Re: Let the games begin...Nick's 67 sedan

Post by John Mc »

WOW,what a difference! Just beautiful!
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LCont72
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Re: Let the games begin...Nick's 67 sedan

Post by LCont72 »

Beautiful! The difference is between night and day!
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LithiumCobalt
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Re: Let the games begin...Nick's 67 sedan

Post by LithiumCobalt »

Today's lesson learned: never trust what the seller tells you. Nice enough guy. I don't think he was lying, but he didn't know enough about the car to know the car was potentially risky to drive. Shame on me for being stupid and not checking before I drove it home three hours.....

I started checking out all the bulbs for my warning lights to make sure they were all good. Turns out, the bulb for the brake warning light was missing. I thought, "well maybe they didn't know how to centralize the differential valve so they removed the bulb"......started poking around and noticed this..
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With my curiosity peaked I decided to check the master cylinder....
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Zoinks! :shock: Secondary system reservoir empty.

Now, I am hoping that it is just the leaky line at the master causing the fluid to leak out. Will check over the other lines to be sure. I do have a couple of questions, though....is it possible to remove and replace the line for the secondary system without disturbing the front primary system? Suspect I will need to bleed the rear brakes after I replace the line, but if the differential valve is closing off the rear system, how is it bled? Will the pressure overcome the valve? Next question, is there a bleeder accessible on the rears without removing the tires and drums? Next, next question - manual mentions a pressurized bleeding system of some type - in reality, is anything special needed or can I simply pump the brakes with someone at one of the rear wheels at a time? Last question - who is willing to bend and flare me a new line if I send the old one as a template? Don't really want to spend over $200 on equipment to do one line.
Nick
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Current: 1971 Mark III, 2012 MKZ AWD, 2016 F-150 Platinum
WANTED: 1969 Continental sedan, 77 Continental Town Car w/opera window delete, 76 Fleetwood Brougham
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LithiumCobalt
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Re: Let the games begin...Nick's 67 sedan

Post by LithiumCobalt »

Also had a look at my exhaust manifolds a little closer. These SOBs are loud. Well, no wonder. The aftermarket fiber gaskets are pretty much burned out. I REALLY want to just pull this engine and do it the proper justice that this car deserves, but the last time I did that I ended up spending about $5,000 in four months. :shock:
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Current: 1971 Mark III, 2012 MKZ AWD, 2016 F-150 Platinum
WANTED: 1969 Continental sedan, 77 Continental Town Car w/opera window delete, 76 Fleetwood Brougham
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Steve K
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Re: Let the games begin...Nick's 67 sedan

Post by Steve K »

Nick, not sure if I understand exactly what you are talking about with your brakes, but I have to ask. Is that a wheel cylinder bleeder screwed into the front reservoir on the MC? If so, does it belong there on a 67? I've never seen that before.

With regard to bleeders on the rear wheel cylinders, yes, there should be one on both sides. And you should be able to bleed them without removing the wheel and drum. The issue with them is they are often REALLY hard to get loose without rounding them off. Make sure you have the correct size wrench - preferably a line wrench. Also give them a good dose of PB Blaster. Ideally, do it several days in a row before you attempt to loosen them. It is not recommended to ever remove the drums for bleeding the brakes, but I do often remove the wheel put it on jackstands. You can raise the rear end on both sides and put jackstands under the axle housing. Taking the wheels off makes it a lot easier to look over top of the drum and see what you are doing. It also gives you better leverage than laying under the car and working over your head with all the crap dropping into your eyes.
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LithiumCobalt
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Re: Let the games begin...Nick's 67 sedan

Post by LithiumCobalt »

Yeah, pretty sure the bleeder on the master cylinder is supposed to be there. At least, that’s what it shows in the service manual. I think probably all I have to do is replace the leaking line that goes to the differential valve and then attempt to bleed the rear brakes. Problem is, that damn line has been on there for fifty years and shows no intention of breaking loose. So, I’ve got it soaking with penetrant at the moment. I just hope I can do all of this without disturbing the front brakes since they seem to be working fine. Will have to crack the front open at the valve, I suspect, so that I can re-center the differential valve.
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Dan Szwarc
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Re: Let the games begin...Nick's 67 sedan

Post by Dan Szwarc »

The bleeder on the master, apparently, is there for manufacturing. It is not for bleeding.
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LithiumCobalt
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Re: Let the games begin...Nick's 67 sedan

Post by LithiumCobalt »

Had a fun time dicking around with my vacuum locks yesterday. Whoever designed to have the valves mounted up high between the A-pillar and emergency brake and behind the dash with no slack in the lines should be shot if they are still living.
Last edited by LithiumCobalt on Mon Feb 11, 2019 9:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
Nick
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Current: 1971 Mark III, 2012 MKZ AWD, 2016 F-150 Platinum
WANTED: 1969 Continental sedan, 77 Continental Town Car w/opera window delete, 76 Fleetwood Brougham
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Re: Let the games begin...Nick's 67 sedan

Post by LithiumCobalt »

Update to the brake line leak....sent out my original to Inline Tube in Michigan. They duplicated it and had it back to me within a few days. Not the cheapest at $41 for a 12” line, but it was made exactly as original. Recommend if anyone is in the market. Next up, bleeding the rears and centering the diff valve.
Nick
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Current: 1971 Mark III, 2012 MKZ AWD, 2016 F-150 Platinum
WANTED: 1969 Continental sedan, 77 Continental Town Car w/opera window delete, 76 Fleetwood Brougham
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LithiumCobalt
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Re: Let the games begin...Nick's 67 sedan

Post by LithiumCobalt »

Quick update: vacuum locks all working now. Turns out, I had a bad lock valve. Not sure how many have had to troubleshoot their lock systems, but what a chore. The testing wasn’t too difficult with the vac pump I got from Dan doing the sucking, but the location of the damn valves mid-way on the inside of the A-pillar behind the dash makes things more difficult than they need to be. I ended up extending all of the original lines so that I could plug them all in to the valves where I could see them. Original hoses have no slack. I took the trim panel to the left of the dash pad off and peeked through the small opening while I was working. That seemed to do the trick. After I was satisfied I resolved the issues, I stuffed the valves back up into the A-pillar and bolted it in its proper place.

After seeing that all of the bolts on the bottom of my exhaust manifolds had tab washers on them, I said to hell with it and took the entire top end off. So starts the snowball. Took the heads in to get new valve seals whether needed or not, machined the exhaust manifolds, degreasing, painting, etc. Here are a couple photo partially taken apart. Engine looks very clean inside. No bent pushrods, either. Bonus.
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Had a peek down into the front timing cover. Original nylon coated cam gear. Front of the engine is the next victim after the top end gets bolted back together. I learned there isn’t enough clearance to get the bolts in the head on the passenger side with the engine blocked up due to the HVAC box. How cute.

Here is what the shitty fiber exhaust manifold gaskets look like after some time. I am using the original metal shields instead.
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Will be glad when I get this all buttoned up. The engine would barf all kinds of fluids after driving and sitting overnight. Sure is easier doing this the second time around. Familiarity makes it go much quicker.

On another note - anyone familiar with Blair Farmer?
Nick
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Current: 1971 Mark III, 2012 MKZ AWD, 2016 F-150 Platinum
WANTED: 1969 Continental sedan, 77 Continental Town Car w/opera window delete, 76 Fleetwood Brougham
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siglumous
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Re: Let the games begin...Nick's 67 sedan

Post by siglumous »

Looks like you're making good progress. Question: does Inline Tube require the original line to replicate, or do they have specs that they can access without? In my situation I'd need a quick swap out/in. Thanks.
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LithiumCobalt
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Re: Let the games begin...Nick's 67 sedan

Post by LithiumCobalt »

Since I was only replacing one of the lines, I sent it in to duplicate. They do show full kits available, however, so they may already have the templates and ability to make all of them without samples. Classic Tube also does the same kind of work. Going the kit route is probably more effective as they charged me $41 just to do one 12” line and the kits are about $150 if I recall. You can get the kits in either the original plain steel or stainless for a small up charge.
Last edited by LithiumCobalt on Wed Nov 22, 2017 10:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
Nick
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Current: 1971 Mark III, 2012 MKZ AWD, 2016 F-150 Platinum
WANTED: 1969 Continental sedan, 77 Continental Town Car w/opera window delete, 76 Fleetwood Brougham
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siglumous
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Re: Let the games begin...Nick's 67 sedan

Post by siglumous »

Thanks. I'll look into them.
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LithiumCobalt
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Re: Let the games begin...Nick's 67 sedan

Post by LithiumCobalt »

Starting to bulk back up...top of the engine is almost done. Had new valve seals put on since the heads were out anyways. Didn't have excessive oil usage, but thought it would be dumb not to change these since they are so inexpensive and probably original. Debating whether to get the carb rebuilt. The car ran really well with no hesitation or stalling and actually respectable mileage at around 13-14mpg, but the accelerator pump and anti-stall dashpot are leaking. I'll probably go ahead and spring for a rebuild so that it is fresh.
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Shiny refinished oil pan....in the kitchen
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Lots of leaking going on here. I've seen worse, though. Plan to disassemble the rest of the front next weekend and get the timing set changed.
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Original AC belt that was still in service. Needless to say, it had seen better days. Part number nets no results. Trying to find an Autolite or Motorcraft equivalent. May have to measure it and try to get close.
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Ran in to two issues. One is the nuts inside the header panel that holds the radiator mounting bracket. At the right there is a open square. There used to be a nut in that opening until I touched it. No access from behind or below. Not sure how I am going to fix this one.
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Other issue is one of the bolts on my battery tray has a seized nut. Only problem is, no access from below and very awkward from the access hole. Near impossible to grab a hold of the nut to turn the bolt the rest of the way out. I hope I don't have to get violent with it.

In other business, I popped out the radiator and AC condensor to take in for flushing and leak testing. Anyone know how the condensor is supposed to be attached at the top? I see two captive nuts on top of the condensor, but I think the only thing holding mine in was the respective AC hard lines and two bolts through the brackets below.
Nick
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Current: 1971 Mark III, 2012 MKZ AWD, 2016 F-150 Platinum
WANTED: 1969 Continental sedan, 77 Continental Town Car w/opera window delete, 76 Fleetwood Brougham
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