1977 400 gets a 4-barrel

[Dan Szwarc]

...and a timing chain. And a water pump. And an Offenhauser manifold.

Here are the pics.

http://www.dannann.net/eriamjh/1977_Lincoln_Continental

Sorry, but I don't think the page works with Firefox. Try IE or Safari.

[Mad Scientist]

It works with firefox, but it was slow to down load.
So now when to we start getting some mileage and performance reports?

[Dan Szwarc]

I was going to pull the motor and do a full engine bay detailing, but let's just say it didn't happen.

I have a 0-degree offset timing chain, which will remove Ford's 6 degree valve timing lag built into every 400 since 1972. My mechanic told me I would get an extra 20-30hp just from the timing chain swap. It's a true-roller type which should reduce friction.

Next on the list is a high-volume water pump. Considering the original pump started leaking last year, it's just better than a stock pump. How can you go wrong with a high-volume pump?

Next is the Edelbrock 1406 to go with the Offy manifold. It is just the right size for a 400 cube motor, calibrated for economy, but also provides the extra 2-barrels that are needed for that car-passing oomph.

This combination was been documented by lincolnlarry to get 20mpg+. I figured I would also make the appropriate changes to increase net horsepower at the same time. The car currently averages about 15 on the freeway, even with AC on. Last fall, the car got a dual exhaust system with a crossover, twin mufflers, and dual resonators. I'll post pics of those, too.

In addition to the fancy manifold and all the trimmings, I have removed the non-working air pump and will not be putting on the EGR as there is no real way to install it.

To summarize the first challenge, there is no appropriate mounting boss for the rear AC compressor mounting bracket and bolt. When I get the original manifold off the block, I will have to make some measurements and try to figure out a way of making one.

First off, the offy manifold appears to be about 1/2-3/4" taller for the runners due to the dual port geometry. That means that not only will I have to make a mounting bracket that accommodates the compressor, but I may have to modify the other compressor bracketry, too.

[SlabSide]

Looking good.

No problem with Firefox here, version 2.0.0.7, loads and runs fast.

[Dan Szwarc]

Forgot to mention that I also picked up an MSD 6A ignition system for $65 (used) which I plan on adding either after the upgrade or as part of it.

[KULTULZ]

I am really interested in this intake theory-



Let us know how she does.

What brand WP are you considering? Have you thought of upgrading to a SANDEN AC?

[Dan Szwarc]

What brand WP are you considering? Have you thought of upgrading to a SANDEN AC?

I have never heard of Sanden AC.

I purchased a Jegs high volume WP for $80 as a compromise between the base WP from a local store and the Edelbrock 8844 "high-performance" pump which was $170.

The base WP is $21 to $40 at RockAuto.

I just didn't want to go with a cheap-ass rebuilt pump with a crummy impeller. I have a 3-core radiator I bought in 2002 and just want the motor to not have any cooling issues.

Based on disassembly, I'm guessing the original timing chain is still on the car. I think I will have the timing cover off the car tonight. I will update my website pics when I have more info.

Other changes I am contemplating are either going with a fan clutch instead of the stock flex-fan or going to and electric fan. I'm having more fun researching the alternatives to being stock and working on the car than I am staying stock, so I may abandon the stock efforts on this car altogether.

[66Lincoupe]

I'm having more fun researching the alternatives to being stock and working on the car than I am staying stock, so I may abandon the stock efforts on this car altogether.

It is fun on the dark side Dan.

[Dan Szwarc]

It is fun on the dark side Dan.

I know. Bizarre, isn't it?

I advocate stock for show cars. It's fun finding NOS parts to a point.

My 77 will never be a show car. I have rust and dents and imperfect chrome. It's a driver. Since it's a driver, I might as well make it the best driver it can be.

[Dan Szwarc]

After today's 2 hour session, the original, and I mean original, water pump is removed. The harmonic balancer is also removed. It appears to need a rebuild as the rubber is fairly cracked and squeezing out.

[Dan Szwarc]

On today's episode, the timing cover was carefully removed exposing the original Ford timing chain.

This car has 98,000 miles and is 32 years old. The timing gear is in great shape. No cracks. There were only slight indentations in the nylon teeth, which is to be expected. The chain itself, however, was badly stretched and ready to be replaced. Now I have to figure out how to mount my replacement gear.

Question: I was able to pull off the crank gear with my hands. No big deal. It seemed to jam a slight bit, but a push back in and pull again and it came right off. In addition, the replacement gear appears to do the same thing so I am not that concerned. I couldn't find my puller any way.

The intake manifold is also removed and the fuel pump. I could have this car back together this weekend if I didn't want to paint and restore everything else. I dread doing that, but I don't think I can clean up the motor and properly fix the leaky oil pan with the motor in the car.

[66Lincoupe]

Question: I was able to pull off the crank gear with my hands. No big deal. It seemed to jam a slight bit, but a push back in and pull again and it came right off. In addition, the replacement gear appears to do the same thing so I am not that concerned. I couldn't find my puller any way.

Isn't this a statement?

When I built my 460 the gear slid on and off. My 462 in the coupe had to be cut and broken off (or pulled, but seeing a gear split is so much more satisfying.) the crank gear on my 300 6cylinder had to be pressed on and off too, but a 302 I built slid easily... I think it could go either way.

[KULTULZ]

What brand WP are you considering? Have you thought of upgrading to a SANDEN AC?

I have never heard of Sanden AC.

It is the lightweight aluminum case that you see so much of on late models. It has become very popular for custom retrofits.

http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/air-co ... et-195.php

[Dan Szwarc]

Now I get it. I thought sanden AC was a type of waterpump based on the way you asked your question.

I am trying NOT to disconnect the AC compressor in order to not lose the freon inside.
I did have issues with the compressor last summer and replacing the compressor may be in the cards. If that is so, then going with a little aftermarket compressor instead of the giant GM compressor is a little more paletable.

I have decided to scale back this project just a tad. Starting in March instead of December/January as originally planned has pushed me to skip pulling the motor and that is preventing me from detailing the engine bay and painting the block, etc.

In other words, I can clean and restore everything so I am going to just be putting on the parts and getting it back on the road. I plan on driving it a lot this summer to test regardless of gas prices and if I like it, I will continue forward.

Cost is also holding me back.

[Dan Szwarc]

I'll update the picture website this weekend.

It appears that the Offy is about 1/2" taller than the original manifold. This is going to throw off the carb height as I already bought a spacer to match the old EGR thickness. Either I have to cut down the spacer, or it will be very tight under the hood. I've already decided to go with an AM air cleaner for more breathability.

The timing cover has been cleaned up and it is only a little pitted. I'm going to replace it next time.

I have decided that the original brackets and pulley were painted gloss black. It is going to look pretty cool powdercoated.

Question: since I am lightening up the front of the engine by about 50-100 lbs, how to I restore balance to the suspension?
Do I cut the springs down? I guess I'll have to see how the car sits when it's all done.