1966 Power windows

[66Lincoupe]

I disassembled my doors and rear panels to get my windows working. While I was still in Arizona I had rolled the fronts down to re-grease the motors and tracks, they were slow, but worked up and down. When I found I was being moved to Micigan I was getting the car ready to ship and the passenger front window would not raise. I jumped the motor to get the window up and have just started tinkering with it again: I have overhauled the switches (cleaned all the contacts, lubed the fulcrums and verified function) I greased all of the tracks and gears. Now all of the windows except the front passenger winddow work correctly. I can run a jumper from the ground wire at the switch connector (with the molded plug pulled slightly apart) and the window will work from the both switches. I bought the '66 wiring diagrams off of eBay before I found this forum and found the ground connection, but nothing is obviously wrong. I did clean all of the contacts just to be safe... I usually don't have any issues with electrical diagnosis, but this one's got me stumped!!

[Dan Szwarc]

Does it work from the drivers door switch?

[TonyC]

Dan's got a good point. If it works from one switch and not the other, then there is a problem in the wiring to the inoperative switch. Even if both switches don't operate the window, the problem will probably be there, since the front windows have an interdependent setup.

I've learned from my vast experience that the fastening points of the wires to the switch are notorious for causing problems like that. Over time they will get worn loose and give poor contact, even no contact. The way to fix that is to apply solder to the contacts. I've done that with nearly every switch in my doors; unless the switch itself is so shot that it's unsalvageable (and I've only come across one that was), it's worked for me every time. It's advisable to have prior experience in soldering, though, since it's a very sensitive job.

While you're at it, you will want to check the door wiring for any breaks or frays in the insulation. Another lesson learned: If the insulation is damaged (and time alone can do that), it will cause funky operation or even non-operation.

Let us know!

---Tony

[baloo]

Need to grab the opportunity to get some info on that comment about rebuilding the PW switches. I have a 60 Continental MK V, and my driver's window control switches are all abysmal (including the Breezeway window control). In fact, when I pulled the cluster, it looks like someone worked on them in the past with a rock, screwdriver and nail, given the crudeness of the work (in fact, the Bakelite side of one of the switches is cracked off, exposing the internals). Has there been a previous thread about rebuilding these switches that I could tap into, rather than learning by blundering?
Appreciate any advice or redirection.//

[76MarkIV]

Need to grab the opportunity to get some info on that comment about rebuilding the PW switches. I have a 60 Continental MK V, and my driver's window control switches are all abysmal (including the Breezeway window control). In fact, when I pulled the cluster, it looks like someone worked on them in the past with a rock, screwdriver and nail, given the crudeness of the work (in fact, the Bakelite side of one of the switches is cracked off, exposing the internals). Has there been a previous thread about rebuilding these switches that I could tap into, rather than learning by blundering?
Appreciate any advice or redirection.//

I think I had a car that was once worked on by the same guy.......

I would suggest that you watch ebay or contact one of the "usual suspects" for an unmolested switch assembly rather than try to straighten out a cobbled up mess left by another in the past.

[66Lincoupe]

Dan,
Yes it works from both switches when I jump the ground on the passenger door switch at the plug - if this jumper isn't there it will not work from either switch. the wiring looks okay, no chafing and no brittle spots. I found a common ground at the right kick panel, is this the only ground? Have you heard of any issues with the flat ribbon harness that runs in the toeboard area? I was thinking about leaving the jumper, but it isn't right, and even if I'm not building a show car I want it right.

Baloo,
As far as the switches go I will post some photos of disassembly, cleaning and reassembly if there isn't a thread already. I'll search, but let me know if you want some specific stuff...

[baloo]

Baloo, As far as the switches go I will post some photos of disassembly, cleaning and reassembly if there isn't a thread already. I'll search, but let me know if you want some specific stuff...

Dan,
Thanks. If you have some photos, good good. You think PW switches changed much during the 60s?
I checked about switches on eBay one time, and they were around $45 each. Quite a bit of $$ for this car which isn't anywhere near show quality.

[66Lincoupe]

They're close. I know the earlier switches were easier to work on because the harness plugged into the switch, on mine the wiring pigtail is riveted to the contacts, this puts a lot of stress on the switch in my opinion, but it works. I've got to download the photos and then I'll put them here. I just got back from North PA so I'm beat. I'll work on it tomorrow.

Rob.

[66Lincoupe]

A question on the bypass switch. This is not a lockout like the newer cars, right? It just supplies power to the system in the event of main power failure (bypasses main power) if I understand the diagrams. So if my switces have power when bypass is not pressed I should be ok. Well, as ok as I can be... I have a mental disorder called Continental.

[jsanford]

A question on the bypass switch. This is not a lockout like the newer cars, right?

Wrong. It is a two function switch, if you hold it one way it is bypass, the other way is lockout.

Jeremy

[66Lincoupe]

Thank you, So I should be okay as I have power to all the windows and the rear relays. With that, I am convinced it is a ground issue (loose, corroded, open) for the one window. All of the others are operational from the master panel and the individual switches. I guess I just need to dig deeper.

Thanks!

[66Lincoupe]

Here's a photo journey through my switch overhaul.



















Should say "Paper towel..." oh well.



















I'm out of fuel for my soldering iron, so this switch was not repaired, just disassembled and reassembled. You can make a dust seal from a bicycle innertube, just cut a square the same size as the switch body then cut a small slit in the center for the switch handle to go through. Hope this helps!

[baloo]

Here's a photo journey through my switch overhaul.
I'm out of fuel for my soldering iron, so this switch was not repaired, just disassembled and reassembled. You can make a dust seal from a bicycle innertube, just cut a square the same size as the switch body then cut a small slit in the center for the switch handle to go through. Hope this helps!

Rob,
Absolutely fantastic. Great detail -- you must be a technical writer/illustrator. You should work for Haynes, to improve their manuals.
Thanks.

[Steve-W]

Absolutely fantastic. Great detail -- you must be a technical writer/illustrator. You should work for Haynes, to improve their manuals.
Thanks.

indeed, these are the kind of pictures and details we need. now i have hope being able to restore my switches...whenever i get my car back

[66Lincoupe]

That's my biggest gripe with Chilton Clymer and Haynes, Not enough detail where there should be... Too much where it doesn't really need to be... Why do they always have a 15 page section on applying body filler??