Upper Back Panel Limit Switch

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Upper Back Panel Limit Switch

Postby ArizonaDPS » Sun Apr 02, 2006 8:35 pm

Does anyone have any exploded views or diagrams of how to put the upper back panel limit switch back together?

I had a brain misfire and backed one of the set screws out too far and the nut fell inside the housing forcing me to open it up. Dummy me stuck my index finger and thumb on the nut driver shaft and spun it completely forgetting that I needed to tighten it instead of loosening it.

I heard of all the horror stories of contacts and springs flying, so I took great care and notes as I opened it. I then reassembled according to my notes, all looked perfect, but no matter how I adjusted it, the top functions are all screwed up. (Well, it was all messed up before I began as no matter what I tried with the test light it didn't work according to the manual.) I can make things work fine when I jump the terminals on that switch. But the deck lid will only open when I unplug it, and its awfully hard to unplug it when it's closed.

I'm gonna call Baker's and Certified Rebuilders tomarrow to see about a rebuild (it might be time for one as I've always suspected this switch as the root of all my problems over the last year). But it would be nice if someone had a diagram and maybe I might be able to see my mistake and fix it.

In fact, I think it would be good if someone had a exploded view or rebuild instructions to post them as there have been many posts over the years about this one part. It really seems to be the root of most of the top problems.
Paul Swietek
LCOC AZ Region
Apache Junction,Arizona
1966 Linc Convertible 4dr
"I'm working for the State on the (Arizona) Highway Patrol."-Junior Brown
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Diagram?

Postby LuxuryLiners » Tue Apr 04, 2006 3:20 pm

I had the pleasure of reaching out to Ron Baker back in '82. It was about 4:30 in the afternoon, and, when I told him how I'd opened my upper back panel switch, and lost had sat there stunned...he says " you're the last call of the day, and excuse me if I break out in laughter".

To answer your question, I've never seen a diagram for this thing in my 30 yrs of Lincoln collecting. I did see a 'nos' unit on EBay last month, it started out a hopeful $14.99 and sold for over $375. Cashman advised against buying, said it prob. was a core. Expect to spend over $400. for a new one.

Good Luck to you!
'65 LCC
'65LC (parts)
have retired over 20 parts cars.....
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Postby ArizonaDPS » Tue Apr 04, 2006 9:41 pm

I had no choice but to open mine. But I've been having a lot of top operation problems and everytime I track it back to that rotary switch. I think over time that it has worn so that it doesn't hold a setting (rounded out holes and weak springs), and I think the rollers were no longer making contact with the contact pads.

So I just sent it out to be completely rebuilt. Your're right, it is horribly expensive, but what choice do you have?? I really wish they would have designed that upper back panel with the plunger type switches used for all the rest of the limit switches, much easier to fix and replace.

Too bad nobody has a diagram. I think it would be an excellent edition to any shop manual.
Paul Swietek
LCOC AZ Region
Apache Junction,Arizona
1966 Linc Convertible 4dr
"I'm working for the State on the (Arizona) Highway Patrol."-Junior Brown
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Postby jleonard » Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:26 pm

Paul,

I just saw your post. Not sure I could have helped you anyway, but sorry I didn't see it before you sent your switch out for rebuild. I rebuilt two UBP limit switches a few months ago. One has a later ('66 I think) part number and was installed on my '64. The other has the correct part number, this is the one I put back on my car.

I did make up a diagram so I could figure out how to put them back together OK. I think I still have it. I also have some pics.

In both of my switches, the contacts were terribly corroded. And the pins in one were also covered in a green film. I cleaned them all up with some fine sandpaper and all is fine. The only problem I have is that one of them has the dreaded rounded-D problem. It was pretty hard to get all the pieces back inside; I created a special tool (out of a Coors Light can :grin: ) to hold all the pieces in place.

I suspect the most common error with these is putting the two "cams" in the wrong places.

- John
Designer & manufacturer of the GearHead Engineering disc brake conversion kit for 1961-1964 Lincolns.
1964 Lincoln Continental Convertible
1965 Ford Galaxie
1967 MGB
2007 Mazda5 (kid hauler with zoom zoom!)
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Postby Sam » Thu Apr 06, 2006 12:07 am

Paul

I don't know where you sent your switch to be rebuilt but here is a place that seems to know what they are doing. The url is http://www.certifiedrebuilders.com/id18.htm.

Also, I just went to my stash and checked the box of my '67 conv stuff that I will eventually put on ebay. One of the items is a C7VB15A674A upper back panel limit switch. I bought it in 1983 as a NOS part but in looking at it now I'm not quite sure. I will check it out operationally in a couple days. I plan on coming to the Western National Meet in Scottsdale. That will probably be too late for you since I'm sure you will want the top operating before that.

Hope to see you there.

Sam
1959 MK IV Conv, 1981 & 1982 MK VI Sedans
2000 Continental

Previous -1958 Mk III Conv, 1962 Sedan,
1967 Sedan, Conv & Coupe, 1968 Sedan
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UPB Bulletin

Postby LuxuryLiners » Fri Apr 07, 2006 5:20 pm

I've found in my pile of TSB's from '64-66 or so, Tech Svc. Bulletin # 20 from 12/16/64. It offers analysis tips and torque limits for what in their opinion, causes the majority of cust. complaints with the convertible. If anyone is interested, I can copy and mail you this item.

Sadly, it does'nt contain schematics for the UPB switch.
'65 LCC
'65LC (parts)
have retired over 20 parts cars.....
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Postby ArizonaDPS » Fri Apr 07, 2006 9:47 pm

I sent mine to the Certified Rebuilders. He had a very good website that detailed how they rebuild the switches and how they have replaced many of the plasitic pieces that wear with metal ones. That and the recommendation from a posting on this bulletin board.

He was already rebuilding one for my year car that should have shipped today and I just sent him my core to keep. I should have it by the middle of next week for me to install as I want to be able to drive the car to the Western National Meet without the trunk stuck in the open position.
Paul Swietek
LCOC AZ Region
Apache Junction,Arizona
1966 Linc Convertible 4dr
"I'm working for the State on the (Arizona) Highway Patrol."-Junior Brown
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Postby ArizonaDPS » Wed Apr 12, 2006 10:24 pm

Got my switch back from Certified Rebuilders today. Nice looking piece of work. Hooked it up and my top was back in business. Like Jim Smith who submitted an earlier post recommending Certified Rebuilders, I'll second the recommendation.

So the everything works fine now except for one thing. Its kinda that, as soon as I fixed one problem, I was able to isolate another. I'll post this problem in another post.
Paul Swietek
LCOC AZ Region
Apache Junction,Arizona
1966 Linc Convertible 4dr
"I'm working for the State on the (Arizona) Highway Patrol."-Junior Brown
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Can We Ask the Price?

Postby LuxuryLiners » Wed Apr 12, 2006 11:10 pm

I mean, a new one typically runs over $400. What were you charged? Is there a warranty and for how long? Thanks in advance.
'65 LCC
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have retired over 20 parts cars.....
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Postby ArizonaDPS » Thu Apr 13, 2006 10:35 pm

3 bills and shipping. Internal spindal replaced with an all metal one, no more rounding D holes. New springs. Roller and contacts checked for wear and replaced. 90 day warranty. From my inspection of it, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between it and a new one with the exception of the all metal spindal.
Paul Swietek
LCOC AZ Region
Apache Junction,Arizona
1966 Linc Convertible 4dr
"I'm working for the State on the (Arizona) Highway Patrol."-Junior Brown
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Postby Jim Smith » Fri May 12, 2006 11:34 pm

This switch is really the "brains of the outfit"...Get the one rebuilt from Certified Rebuilders and simplify your life! Worth every penny...You'll want to tip the guy!
Jim Smith, Saskatoon, Canada
1966 Continental conv, white/lt. blue
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Postby Dan Szwarc » Sun Aug 20, 2006 8:49 pm

$300 and only a 90 day warranty.

Mine is acting up and I am considering just spending the bucks to have it done. I'm not daring enough to open the switch.

I just read through their pages and found the adjustment procedure. Nice work.
Last edited by Dan Szwarc on Mon Aug 21, 2006 5:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby CarWash » Mon Aug 21, 2006 6:11 am

got my switch rebuilt from Certified Rebuilders too... really good work and perfect looking! never had problems with this switch since i got it back in 2004.
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Postby Dan Szwarc » Mon Aug 21, 2006 4:32 pm

The rebuilder sounds like a professional doing it on the side. I do not question his work at all. I believe he does a top-notch job. I betcha he rebuilds them for the usual suspects.
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Postby Dan Szwarc » Tue Aug 22, 2006 9:24 pm

Well, I can't resist a challenge. Especially when it is my car that isn't working. I tore my switch off and rebuilt it.

Check out my pics of how I rebuilt my switch.

Anyone can do this. If your parts aren't broken, then you are just cleaning the switch parts.

Ideally, I should have greased the contacts. The thing is, I can do this anytime. We'll see how long this lasts. I detected no grease on both switches I rebuilt. I think that would have helped.

I had a spare switch to use in case I really screwed up. There were design improvements made to this crappy switch over the years. They plated the brass rollers and contacts and beefed up the tabs on the carriers. Neither design is that great. The design is horribly flawed and there is little to do to make a better switch.

Certified Rebuilder might make repairs, but you are still stuck with the crappy roller and contact system. At least their metal parts won't break as easily. I'd love to get my hands on the SS pivot.

By the way, it took about an hour to rebuild. I didn't have to repair any plastic. I didn't replace the harness crimps/contacts, and I didn't paint the switch housings black.
Last edited by Dan Szwarc on Wed Aug 23, 2006 6:23 am, edited 2 times in total.
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