So, essentially, the answer to my question is, "Find out the hard way yo' own damn self, Newbie!". Right? Thanks. I would think a reputable bizz would not keep their acceptable methods of payment hidden from public view, but it is what it is, right...?
Chevy, I'm really sorry to see that bad experience of yours. As I only tried once to be on the selling side, I cannot say I've had that experience; I've always been on the buyer side of PayPal, so my experience has been different. But if others have had your experience, that does explain why some online bizzes don't accept PayPal transfers. Steele Rubber, however, does; and being that as of last night Detroit Deviant had only two of those boots left, that may mean the more expensive option may be my only option, once I save up for it.
---Tony
Looking for BOOT (ACCELERATOR SHAFT): C1VV 9A873-B....
Moderator: Dan Szwarc
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Re: Looking for BOOT (ACCELERATOR SHAFT): C1VV 9A873-B....
"Don't believe everything you read on the Internet, just because there is a picture with a quote next to it." (Abraham Lincoln, 1866)
"Question Authority!"
1966 Continental Sedan, affectionately known as "Frankenstein" until body restoration is done (to be renamed "General Sherman" on that event)
"Question Authority!"
1966 Continental Sedan, affectionately known as "Frankenstein" until body restoration is done (to be renamed "General Sherman" on that event)
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Re: Looking for BOOT (ACCELERATOR SHAFT): C1VV 9A873-B....
A lot of what is mentioned here is why I stopped selling on Ebay, or even buying much, for that matter. Fees for everything and the deck is always stacked against the seller with no recourse available.1Bad55Chevy wrote: ↑Mon Dec 05, 2022 1:11 pmI hate PayPal..
My wife started an online E-commerce business when I was in the Army that was doing around $20k a month in sales. PayPal was the biggest headache she had. Buyers CONSTANTLY order and when they receive the tracking information they dispute the charge for "non delivery". PayPal being such an awesome company will never side with the business and will always refund the customer.
If you dig on the internet you will see all types of horror stories about people selling vehicles on eBay and receiving payment via PayPal and once the vehicle is delivered and received title the buyer will dispute it for non delivery. Its insane that PayPal (who is owned by eBay) will side with the buyers regardless even if there is a signature upon delivery. They see it as civil case and will never get involved beyond refunding cash..
At least in the car business I go repo their car if they try pulling the shit on me.
Nick
Current: 1971 Mark III, 2012 MKZ AWD, 2016 F-150 Platinum
WANTED: 1969 Continental sedan, 77 Continental Town Car w/opera window delete, 76 Fleetwood Brougham
Current: 1971 Mark III, 2012 MKZ AWD, 2016 F-150 Platinum
WANTED: 1969 Continental sedan, 77 Continental Town Car w/opera window delete, 76 Fleetwood Brougham
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Re: Looking for BOOT (ACCELERATOR SHAFT): C1VV 9A873-B....
Actually, I can understand that. If you have a bad experience with someone or something, it's logical to not give them a repeat opportunity to play you again.
My own personal case, for example: Two bad runs with RockAuto. The first was very inconvenient, but I was willing to shrug it off as just a sporadic fluke (ordered intake gaskets for Frankenstein, they sent me one for a Jeep of a later decade; but, I sent it back and got a refund for that after sourcing intake gaskets locally). The second, though, did it for me (the lifter thing which could not be reconciled). Though I haven't written them off entirely, they are not my first go-to choice now. I have to say that my general E-Bay experience has been good; it was instrumental in helping me acquire most of the things I needed for last year's rebuild (I think I've just been lucky to interact with good sellers; sure wish I had that luck with Lotto tickets, though).
---Tony
My own personal case, for example: Two bad runs with RockAuto. The first was very inconvenient, but I was willing to shrug it off as just a sporadic fluke (ordered intake gaskets for Frankenstein, they sent me one for a Jeep of a later decade; but, I sent it back and got a refund for that after sourcing intake gaskets locally). The second, though, did it for me (the lifter thing which could not be reconciled). Though I haven't written them off entirely, they are not my first go-to choice now. I have to say that my general E-Bay experience has been good; it was instrumental in helping me acquire most of the things I needed for last year's rebuild (I think I've just been lucky to interact with good sellers; sure wish I had that luck with Lotto tickets, though).
---Tony
"Don't believe everything you read on the Internet, just because there is a picture with a quote next to it." (Abraham Lincoln, 1866)
"Question Authority!"
1966 Continental Sedan, affectionately known as "Frankenstein" until body restoration is done (to be renamed "General Sherman" on that event)
"Question Authority!"
1966 Continental Sedan, affectionately known as "Frankenstein" until body restoration is done (to be renamed "General Sherman" on that event)
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Re: Looking for BOOT (ACCELERATOR SHAFT): C1VV 9A873-B....
I thought this would be a good place to record my experience with the Detroit Deviant boot on my ‘62. In short, while there was no issue getting it installed, the rubber is so thick, and the bellows so stiff, that I could not get the throttle to close reliably. I tried different throttle linkage adjustments, and even a “helper” return spring, but to no avail.
I know that others have reported success with this kit, so I don’t know if this is just peculiar to my car, but what I notice is that my pedal shaft where it exits the unibody is within 1/8” of the top of the cutout at rest (the bellcrank moves the shaft back and downward with increasing throttle application), and that is where the interference with the bellows occurs. See pics
Anyway, I may save up and try the Steele repop, but until then I just renewed my homemade shaft seal which has worked resonably well for the last 35 years (just bond a pliable rubber to the bracket and cut a vertical slit for the shaft).
I know that others have reported success with this kit, so I don’t know if this is just peculiar to my car, but what I notice is that my pedal shaft where it exits the unibody is within 1/8” of the top of the cutout at rest (the bellcrank moves the shaft back and downward with increasing throttle application), and that is where the interference with the bellows occurs. See pics
Anyway, I may save up and try the Steele repop, but until then I just renewed my homemade shaft seal which has worked resonably well for the last 35 years (just bond a pliable rubber to the bracket and cut a vertical slit for the shaft).
1930 A Coupe
1941 LC Coupe
1968 XR-7 (my great-grandfather’s)
1962 LC Sedan (owned 35 years & driven 100k+ myself)
1941 LC Coupe
1968 XR-7 (my great-grandfather’s)
1962 LC Sedan (owned 35 years & driven 100k+ myself)
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Re: Looking for BOOT (ACCELERATOR SHAFT): C1VV 9A873-B....
Nice-looking patch, though still not a perfect seal. But your experience with the DD seal gives me reason to go with the pricier Steele seal, which I still have yet to do. It just hasn't been an immediate need for me, as the cobble job I did about ten years ago still is holding and sealing quite well, especially since I thought of putting a plug into the production hole behind it (oh, and J-B Welded a metal patch in the floor to seal off the rust hole that formed under the accelerator).
---Tony
---Tony
"Don't believe everything you read on the Internet, just because there is a picture with a quote next to it." (Abraham Lincoln, 1866)
"Question Authority!"
1966 Continental Sedan, affectionately known as "Frankenstein" until body restoration is done (to be renamed "General Sherman" on that event)
"Question Authority!"
1966 Continental Sedan, affectionately known as "Frankenstein" until body restoration is done (to be renamed "General Sherman" on that event)
Re: Looking for BOOT (ACCELERATOR SHAFT): C1VV 9A873-B....
Lee wrote: ↑Sat Feb 18, 2023 3:46 pm I thought this would be a good place to record my experience with the Detroit Deviant boot on my ‘62. In short, while there was no issue getting it installed, the rubber is so thick, and the bellows so stiff, that I could not get the throttle to close reliably. I tried different throttle linkage adjustments, and even a “helper” return spring, but to no avail.
Lee - Things don't always go as planned and I can attest that acquired parts (no matter the source) don't always fit. Good on you to find a way forward. 5 years ago when I replaced the boot kit on my '63, I bought mine from Old Lincoln Parts. I had similar issues as you described and ended up trimming the rubber boot where the shaft meets the collar.
Again, Bravo on being creative!
Mark in Charlotte
1963 Lincoln Continental convertible
1963 Lincoln Continental convertible
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Re: Looking for BOOT (ACCELERATOR SHAFT): C1VV 9A873-B....
https://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/ ... 94#p341794
I custom made my own and adjusted the mount for clearance.
I custom made my own and adjusted the mount for clearance.
The below links are mostly dead.
Dan Szwarc: 1966 Convertible
Shop Manual or MPCs available
Signature rules.
Help the forum for 2024.
Dan Szwarc: 1966 Convertible
Shop Manual or MPCs available
Signature rules.
Help the forum for 2024.
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Re: Looking for BOOT (ACCELERATOR SHAFT): C1VV 9A873-B....
Thanks Dan, I did read your post, and almost started down the road to fabricating a new bracket, but it was a warm sunny day here, spring in the air, and I decided rather to spend the time playing hookey, with the wind blowing in what remains of my hair.
1930 A Coupe
1941 LC Coupe
1968 XR-7 (my great-grandfather’s)
1962 LC Sedan (owned 35 years & driven 100k+ myself)
1941 LC Coupe
1968 XR-7 (my great-grandfather’s)
1962 LC Sedan (owned 35 years & driven 100k+ myself)
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Re: Looking for BOOT (ACCELERATOR SHAFT): C1VV 9A873-B....
Hi, all,
Bumping this thread because I have something relevant to contribute to this topic. Quick history rehash: About 9-ish years ago, I did a cobble repair to Frankenstein's accelerator boot, by emulating Dan's own fix with a Mustang clutch-linkage boot. It held up pretty well for that time, but a few weeks ago I noticed that the boot was starting to separate from the bracket, as the glue I used to seal it was deteriorating after being bathed with oil all those years. A few months ago I had come across an E-Bay listing for exact repro accelerator boots made by Steele, so I bought two of them for good measure. That turned out to be a good investment. About a week ago, when I started on replacing a few under-car items, I decided that I wanted to replace the boot for good measure. When I took it off, I saw that it had a sizable hole in it at the top near the base! As you can see from the photo below, it had certainly worn its life out. The Steele repro is a perfect fit, save for no screw holes in the rubber, which is not a showstopping inconvenience. The second photo shows it in place.
But there was a disturbing side-issue I discovered. While trying to push the boot through the accelerator link, the link came completely off in my hand. As it turned out, there was supposed to be a clip that secured it to a ball stud at the bottom of the accelerator; it went MIA, I just have no idea when. I fished around inside the cavity and did not find a trace of it, which makes me wonder how long I had been driving with a loose link that could have fallen off the accelerator at any time. I did not have a spare clip, so I did a makeshift securing with a small cotter pin. That holds the link in place for now, but I'd prefer to get a proper replacement clip (the same kind as on the other end of that link).
---Tony
Bumping this thread because I have something relevant to contribute to this topic. Quick history rehash: About 9-ish years ago, I did a cobble repair to Frankenstein's accelerator boot, by emulating Dan's own fix with a Mustang clutch-linkage boot. It held up pretty well for that time, but a few weeks ago I noticed that the boot was starting to separate from the bracket, as the glue I used to seal it was deteriorating after being bathed with oil all those years. A few months ago I had come across an E-Bay listing for exact repro accelerator boots made by Steele, so I bought two of them for good measure. That turned out to be a good investment. About a week ago, when I started on replacing a few under-car items, I decided that I wanted to replace the boot for good measure. When I took it off, I saw that it had a sizable hole in it at the top near the base! As you can see from the photo below, it had certainly worn its life out. The Steele repro is a perfect fit, save for no screw holes in the rubber, which is not a showstopping inconvenience. The second photo shows it in place.
But there was a disturbing side-issue I discovered. While trying to push the boot through the accelerator link, the link came completely off in my hand. As it turned out, there was supposed to be a clip that secured it to a ball stud at the bottom of the accelerator; it went MIA, I just have no idea when. I fished around inside the cavity and did not find a trace of it, which makes me wonder how long I had been driving with a loose link that could have fallen off the accelerator at any time. I did not have a spare clip, so I did a makeshift securing with a small cotter pin. That holds the link in place for now, but I'd prefer to get a proper replacement clip (the same kind as on the other end of that link).
---Tony
"Don't believe everything you read on the Internet, just because there is a picture with a quote next to it." (Abraham Lincoln, 1866)
"Question Authority!"
1966 Continental Sedan, affectionately known as "Frankenstein" until body restoration is done (to be renamed "General Sherman" on that event)
"Question Authority!"
1966 Continental Sedan, affectionately known as "Frankenstein" until body restoration is done (to be renamed "General Sherman" on that event)
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