verify distributor position - 460

[BobCT]

I am three levels deep on getting my Mark III running (again). I'll post some additional details after I speak with Pertronix again today. I want to check a few basic things in the meantime. Can someone confirm that I have my distributor reinstalled correctly? I removed it to get a look at the chain and gears and they have already been replaced. That makes sense and why I have RTV on the front of the oil pan and timing cover.

With cyl #1 (pass side, first cylinder/front of engine) at TDC (piston is at the top of its stroke), verified with a finger/compression blowing out and with a plastic stick, the rotor is pointing to cylinder #1 on the distributor cap. Roughly the 1:00 position standing at the grill.

Is that correct? I just want to be 100% I'm not 180 degrees off.

thanks
Bob

[Lee]

That sounds like you are on the TDC of the compression stroke to me. I think you’re fine.

[Emas9420]

yes, distributor should be around 1:00 position. however, play around with it because i had a timing issue too with this where it was almost where it needed to be and when it wasn't.. car would not start. try advancing or retarding. you should be able to spin the distributor without hitting the fuel pump on one side or hoses on the other.. if its hitting before you can spin, you have the distributor on a tooth off.

[BobCT]

related to the timing... I just re-checked to make sure piston is at TDC and rotor is pointing at # 1 terminal, good.

But, it looks like my marks are off and I really can't read it very well. It looks like TDC is closer to the "A8ATC" end of the balancer, just before the 10 degree mark which I can read. I'm referring to the "10" which is close to the "C" in ATC. Does anyone have a clear pic? I don't see one in the manual.

I think I'm off quite a bit if true.

[Lee]

Here’s a picture. It really isn’t very accurate trying to find TDC without a true piston stop, because there is a “dead zone” at TDC of maybe 5-8 degrees where it’s hard to detect any piston movement without a dial indicator. But if you really feel that it’s close to the top at 10 ATDC, make your mark for TDC there.

Even 10 degrees off, I would still expect the engine to at least try to start.

[BobCT]

that helps, now I can see where I think I am at TDC. I tried the timing light but without the engine running, it's the flash is too slow. But, that could also be my weak spark not helping.

[Emas9420]

fyi, spray water or wd40 or something on the markings.. makes it easier to read when wet (at least in my 66' it does)

[TonyC]

You won't be able to get the timing dead-on-balls accurate without the engine running, so wait until it is. In concurrence with the others, I'd say you have the distributor properly seated, so there should be no flames erupting from the carburetor when you try to fire up the engine. Loosen the retaining clamp just enough to shift the distributor with some resistance, then fire up the engine. While it's running, you carefully shift the distributor back or forth (disconnect and plug the vacuum advance beforehand) to get the initial timing reading you need. Then shut down and tighten the clamp all the way, and reconnect the vacuum advance.

This reminds me of a guy I knew in Kansas who had '72 full-size Coupé, who asked me for help in getting his engine running. He had removed the distributor without making note of its angle, and he installed it a full 180° off. When he tried cranking the engine, fire blasted out of his carburetor. It took a while to diplomatically tell him to reset it 180°; but when he did, the engine fired up right away, no more eruptive backfire.

One trick I would suggest that I've done with mine is to apply a bright color of model paint, either yellow or white, into the engravings on the scale. Wipe the paint off the surface while it's still wet, the paint that fills the engravings will stay in place; then let it dry. That will make it much easier to read the precise timing.

---Tony