TheLincolnForum.Net

Peruse the selection at RockAuto.com. You can cross-check the brands at other sites to verify application, and part numbers.

Two the same size is usually four wheel disk. When one is bigger than the other, that’s for rear drums.

Whatever you put on, should likely be the same, unless some PO effed it up.

Remember that the IVR is only used for the fuel gage and the temperature gage. Nothing else.

It should provide an AVERAGE of 5V. Not a clean 5V, but an average.

The alternator shield is oft removed and oft lost.

I put one on my car. The next time I had to service the alternator, I removed it and never put it back on.

Come to think of it, I don't think the factory would have used shocks with those labels. Those are just the retail labels.

Whatever you put on your car, just make sure you paint them black. I think you’d be better off finding Motorcraft or NORS-type shocks from whoever the shock OEM was back then instead of 58 year-old NOS originals, but that’s the engineer in me. Even stock from the 80s is better than anything from the...

Might be for the auto-headlamp dimmer electronics.

You should be more interested in those open vacuum lines than a fuse.

Oil viscosity explained.

https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-st ... ained.html

Whatever you do, read this thread:


New oils are ruining our cars.
viewtopic.php?t=18359

Yes. Check the vacuum can on the left fender for leaks.

Check the check valve leading to it that it holds.

If the air is the right temperature when requested, then the problem is vacuum leaks.

Well, color me surprised. In a lifetime of Ford ownership, I’ve never encountered that. I always thought that the I terminal and the starter terminal were electrically linked, so it was impossible to have 12V at one, and not the other. I've encountered the opposite, myslef. The car cranks and crank...

And from the half court line...SWISH! At the buzzer!

I made this a sticky for 90 days. The world needs to know John is available.

Check the floats.

If the trunk of fully open and the flap is extended, the next step is Top Unlock at the windshield header. Jumping the relay would bypass the Upper Back Panel Up switch and unlock the top.

Consult your shop manual for schematics and wire colors.