Once again Tony, admire how you are working through problems. I wouldn’t worry a whole lot about the top spring pressures. The originals called for something like 77# on the primary and 100+ pounds on the secondary (I may have that reversed), but any kits sold in the aftermarket are pretty generic. It’ll work OK as long as there is sufficient tension to return the shoes.TONY NZ 64 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 03, 2024 6:20 am Wow Fraser that is a great collection of parts.
At this stage I think the only part I am missing is a top shoe spring. The reason my right rear brake locked on was a spring snapped and the shoe jammed on the drum. I have got spare mopar ones somewhere so will search them out and see if they are correct length and tension.
Did the weld and grind to the backing plate today. Went great.
Decided to try assembly brakes off the car. Worked fantastic. Used wood clamp to hold shoes together. Cut a groove in the end of a steel bar and used as a tool to hook top springs on. Used vise grips so spring end started near end of bar.
All my adjusters are identical. Manual says there are left and rights, mine all lefts.
My backing plates are not 64 as the shoe holding springs are at the bottom half of the shoe.
Started bending my new brake lines but I need a 180 deg bender. One I borrowed is a 90 deg. Buy one tomorrow, $30 Kiwi.
Cheers
I once called one of the better known Lincoln suppliers to ask whether he had the “proper” springs for my ‘62, and he wasn’t even aware they were different.
Don’t know if you can get the copper-nickel alloy lines in NZ, but those are soooo easy to bend, you can even do it carefully by hand and nobody would even know you didn’t use a bender. Another tip is to fill the line with sand or glass beads from your blaster, and then bend away by hand, even with steel lines. The beads keep the line from crimping.
Also, I probably don’t need to tell you, but make sure you double flare all your lines…