Taking engine out of 1962

[Dan Szwarc]

Also where to go to get water pump rebuilt

You could have them rebuilt from RockAuto, Dorman, etc. or you could buy a kit from John Plaskan (aka Cowboy John).

where to goto get power steering rebuilt

Lincoln Land or Baker's can rebuild them and also sell the kits. If yours isn't groaning, you might be able to get away with just a reseal. If it makes noise, it may not be rebuildable.

[Newchapters]

Hope everyone is doing well. I a still very slowly working on things as I get time. Got valley pan off and cleaned engine with engine cleaner, brush and sprayer. worked ok but I am going to need a pressure washer to get all that grease off. Might be a stupid question but is it ok that water and cleaner gets on cam and other stuff in engine?
Ok here is my dilemma. I am replacing time gears and chain, high volume oil pump, all gaskets from head up, rebuild power steering pump and water pump, new steering link bushing, little white plastic things, sway bar bushings and center. drag link. I am going to replace all valve seats,engine freeze plugs, all 12, water diverters 2 of them and add high amp alternator. Going to paint engine and bay of car. Now here is the real questions.

Engine was running fine just bogged down sometimes when taking off ( Most likely carb needs to be rebuilt) and steering was really loose ( drag link was worn out so loose replacing). Didn't shift in to gear and would not stay in gears. ( shift link bushing missing and crumbling replacing them) what the must do for this car now.

I have read so many discussion about people saying replace items when the engine is out and other say leave it alone if its not broke.

I have to replace the valve seats because they are all broke but the push rods are dirty but all are straight as a board.

intake and exhaust valve are very dirty and have carbon built up on them. should I replace them and is it hard

push rod spring look ok but I have to take then off when I replace valve seats so should I replace those
and the big one is do I need to replace the lifter if I am moving the valve rods.?

What have you found that clean the engine up real nice for painting and what high head paint do you guys like.
what good for the engine bay por 15, also should I replace the steering column shaft with link. I know this is repetitive but I am trying to get all this in order.
I got a lot of part ready to go out for powder coating and again thank for all the feedback and help

fyi was told by mark 2 that in 6 moths he will start selling brand new power steering pump interesting.

Distributor out

rods are straight

rods

[Dan Szwarc]

Hope everyone is doing well. I a still very slowly working on things as I get time. Got valley pan off and cleaned engine with engine cleaner, brush and sprayer. worked ok but I am going to need a pressure washer to get all that grease off. Might be a stupid question but is it ok that water and cleaner gets on cam and other stuff in engine?

Probably not. Clean with petroleum-based cleaners or you'll get rust. You don't really want to let the finely machined surfaces to get rusty on purpose.

Ok here is my dilemma. I am replacing time gears and chain, high volume oil pump, all gaskets from head up, rebuild power steering pump and water pump, new steering link bushing, little white plastic things, sway bar bushings and center. drag link. I am going to replace all valve seats,engine freeze plugs, all 12, water diverters 2 of them and add high amp alternator. Going to paint engine and bay of car. Now here is the real questions.

Engine was running fine just bogged down sometimes when taking off ( Most likely carb needs to be rebuilt) and steering was really loose ( drag link was worn out so loose replacing). Didn't shift in to gear and would not stay in gears. ( shift link bushing missing and crumbling replacing them) what the must do for this car now.

I have read so many discussion about people saying replace items when the engine is out and other say leave it alone if its not broke.

I have to replace the valve seats because they are all broke but the push rods are dirty but all are straight as a board.

You must mean valve seals. You should have a complete valve job done on the heads, including having the valve seats machined

intake and exhaust valve are very dirty and have carbon built up on them. should I replace them and is it hard

Is it hard to replace valves? No. Are they hard to locate? Probably. I've never checked.

Call the usual suspects (Baker's, Lincoln Land, Jack Rosen's Mark II Enterprises, Lincoln Old Parts Store, etc.) and get quotes and advice regarding the availability of parts. Ask if the parts are exact replacements, kludged substitutes, etc.

push rod spring look ok but I have to take then off when I replace valve seats so should I replace those and the big one is do I need to replace the lifter if I am moving the valve rods.?

You're supposed to keep the lifters and pushrods matched to their location in the block and each other if you are not replacing them.

Picking what to replace is a little bit of personal opinion, but I will offer some neutral advice: Find someone who can offer you some technical advice on whether or not to replace an item and why. Some things are difficult to replace with high-quality parts. Others, not so much.

What have you found that clean the engine up real nice for painting and what high head paint do you guys like.

I used mineral spirits to remove the oil and buildup and a wire brush. Painted with POR15 engine paint. If you can't remove the rust, you must seal it and then topcoat with a good paint that doesn't chip, peel, but stays rather soft without burning off. Search the net for recipes (I've heard people say they use regular enamel car paint, but use less hardener, etc, but know nothing specific). Your engine should be gloss black so matching it should be a problem.

what good for the engine bay por 15, also should I replace the steering column shaft with link. I know this is repetitive but I am trying to get all this in order.

Engine bay in the car is supposed to be body color. Engine is gloss black as are all the accessories, except those that should be natural, unpainted, or clear (to prevent rust).

I got a lot of part ready to go out for powder coating and again thank for all the feedback and help

Powdercoating is the best. I do my own. Fantastic results.

fyi was told by mark 2 that in 6 moths he will start selling brand new power steering pump interesting.

It won't be cheap. Expect it to be $500 to $750. Cheaper to rebuild the original, but I'd love to see it as mine is a groaner and likely in need of replacement.

What you are doing is what many end up doing. Ask yourself to what end are you doing all of this? Are you going to drive it a lot when it is done or will it just be an occasional trip around the block to get ice cream? Are you going to restore the rest of the car quickly or slowly? Ask yourself why you are spending all of this time and money on the car? A full rebuild could make the car great for the next 20 to 40 years. Will you have it that long or will you sell it in 5 years? You must decide.

[Rick Crunelle]

Here's just a thought... I see that when you pulled the engine, you left the torq converter attached... normally you would remove the nuts that hold the converter to the fly wheel, and leave the torq converter on the trans. Make sure you put the torq converter on the transmission before installing the engine. Look up how to properly seat the torq converter. You slowly spin it around until it seats... twice...

If you try to attach the converter to the engine, then drop the engine in, you may be able to line up the trans input shaft into the converter, but it will not seat right and you will destroy the pump in your trans when you tighten up the bolts between the engine and trans.

[Newchapters]

Here's just a thought... I see that when you pulled the engine, you left the torq converter attached... normally you would remove the nuts that hold the converter to the fly wheel, and leave the torq converter on the trans. Make sure you put the torq converter on the transmission before installing the engine. Look up how to properly seat the torq converter. You slowly spin it around until it seats... twice...

If you try to attach the converter to the engine, then drop the engine in, you may be able to line up the trans input shaft into the converter, but it will not seat right and you will destroy the pump in your trans when you tighten up the bolts between the engine and trans.

Rick I didn't know any better it just come with the engine when I took it out. I have read forums on here and saw on to do exactly what you are saying to do and if you don't it can mess up your transmission. thanks

[Newchapters]

I want both but I know that I am only going to drive the car 2-4 times a month and take it to car shows when I can. I would like to keep it and give it to my boys but I would also like a convertible. This all started to check my timing chain and now I have removed the engine and am replacing all these parts and I know this is how a lot of people started.
Do you have to replace the valve springs when replacing the valve seals? I want to replace items that have to be replaced like valve seals because they are gone but If I dont have to replace items like valve springs if not needed. I would rather put money into must have items.

[Dan Szwarc]

Do you have to replace the valve springs when replacing the valve seals? I want to replace items that have to be replaced like valve seals because they are gone but If I dont have to replace items like valve springs if not needed. I would rather put money into must have items.

There should be basic height check in the shop manual. If they are below spec, they should be replaced.

There may be a bunch of other things to check, but I am not an expert. You should consult with a professional engine rebuilder or start doing some research.

[Newchapters]

Dan that manual is my bible haha. If I had to get every tool they say to use I would never finish the car. When I get a chance I am going to find out about getting a valve job and other stuff like new lifter, springs, pushrods and valve seal from a local company that has worked on other Lincoln., I would like do it all my self butI dont have all the proper tools it seems for it to be done right.

[burnski]

fyi was told by mark 2 that in 6 moths he will start selling brand new power steering pump interesting.

Who is Mark?

Im going to need a PS pump, dont think mine is salvageable, and both Bakers & Lincolnland only currently offer rebuild services assuming you have a good core.

[Dan Szwarc]

Mark II Enterprises

[Solid]

I want both but I know that I am only going to drive the car 2-4 times a month and take it to car shows when I can. I would like to keep it and give it to my boys but I would also like a convertible. This all started to check my timing chain and now I have removed the engine and am replacing all these parts and I know this is how a lot of people started.
Do you have to replace the valve springs when replacing the valve seals? I want to replace items that have to be replaced like valve seals because they are gone but If I dont have to replace items like valve springs if not needed. I would rather put money into must have items.

You can replace the valve stem seals without removing the heads. There are threads from me and others on how to do it, but basically the trick is to use the adapter hose that comes with a compression gauge to pressurize the cylinder you are working on with your shop compressor. It will constantly leak like this so use ear plugs as the compressor will probably never stop during the job. While it is pressurized, the valves will stay up and seated, allowing you to remove the hardware above and put the new valve stem seal in place. You work on one cylinder at a time obviously.

In order to do this you need to remove the rocker arm assembly. It is not hard to do and very worth cleaning out the hollow rocker arm tube since the top end oiling flows through it and then through a little hole on the top of each rocker arm. It then drips down onto the pushrods (doesn't really spray at all) and sort of gets spread around by all the mechanical chaos. Inside the valve cover.

[John Mc]

So Newchapters, how did the engine turn out???? Have not heard anything in months and I might be facing the same project with my '61.

[Newchapters]

Winter has come and gone and so has my time. Now that I have a little time and the weather is nice I am back at it again. The engine is at a machine shop waiting to be looked at to see whats needed. They are a local company but they have been booked out for 3 months. I am getting very impatient. I have beed doing odds and ends here and there and they previous owner did a lot of work to it. I took down the gas tank which was pita became bolts where all rusted and found it was so clean with no rust and a little dirt it but the gas sending unit didn't have a filter on the end of it but also looks in great condition. The gas tank straps are all rusted but I hope I can clean them up and have them painted or powder coated. I took that and the heating cores in which are in good contains but just rust in compartment. As you all know the to do list keeps getting bigger and bigger.

Gas tank very clean in side

Don;t know why they copped off line with bolt?

Rubber between gas tank and body

[Newchapters]

Some nice rusted heater parts. Gentling to clean out and paint or powder coat. I think I am going to clean and replace all items in heating system and add a vintage air system. I think it would work better because my system is so old and so many parts to replace and the cost would be about the same if not more. Also found why my door locks would not hold air when car was off. The drivers side vac lines where not connected.

Just a little surface rust.

No wonder I didn't get any heat all rubber is old and not there.

[Newchapters]

Slowly getting car ready to paint and parts out to be rebuilt. I am going to use por 15 with their top coat on top. so much prep work.

still so many parts and stuff to deal with before paint