1979 continental Main ground location

ilrt66 · Post by **ilrt66** » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:16 pm

Was on this forum a few months ago trying to figure out my windows electrical problems. Now sidetracked because I can't get the car to start. Checked everything but can't see a ground cable. Maybe I'm blind. !979 continental town car.

Also if anyone knows of someone that's good with these cars (as far as working on the power windows electrical system) in the St. Louis area please let me know.

Mike Springer
stlouiskitchenandbath@live.com

Post by **Dan Szwarc** » Wed Aug 01, 2012 12:27 pm

Mike, did you follow the negative battery cable from the battery to the frame?

ilrt66 · Post by **ilrt66** » Wed Aug 01, 2012 10:51 pm

One cable goes direct to starter. The other to the solenoid then to the the engine block just behind the air pump.

ilrt66 · Post by **ilrt66** » Wed Aug 01, 2012 11:14 pm

Here is the problem. Went to a customerâ€™s house and when I got back in the car it wouldnâ€™t start. Went to the local auto parts and got a new solenoid as itâ€™s the first thing to go out usually. It didnâ€™t work.
So I cleaned the battery cables still nothing. Then pulled the starter and had it bench tested. It tested fine. While I had it out I put on a new battery cable to the starter. Still nothing.
Having such bad luck with Chinese made parts I thought that the new solenoid could be bad as well so I replaced it. As soon as I put in the new one the car started up and I took it for a short drive. Before putting it back into the garage. Before doing so I turned it off and restarted. When I did the starter stayed engaged with the running engine and I had to pull the coil wire to stop the engine and starter.
I put a third solenoid and now Iâ€™m back to nothing happening when I turned the key. So I replaced the ignition switch. Still wonâ€™t start.
When I turn the key everything works, lights, radio windows and seats etc. etc. Also when I turn the key the lights dim slightly.
Help! Iâ€™m terrible when it comes to working with electrical issues.
-MIKE-

ilrt66 · Post by **ilrt66** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:55 pm

Car wont start any ideas?

Post by **Dan Szwarc** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 7:43 am

ilrt66 wrote:One cable goes direct to starter. The other to the solenoid then to the the engine block just behind the air pump.

Not from the battery they don't. The negative cable should go to the frame, the block, or both. I haven't looked at my 77, but I guess I could tonight. The positive goes to the solenoid. The other end of the solenoid goes to the starter.

...I turned it off and restarted. When I did the starter stayed engaged with the running engine and I had to pull the coil wire to stop the engine and starter. I put a third solenoid and now Iâ€™m back to nothing happening when I turned the key. So I replaced the ignition switch.

First, verify you have a good ground to the solenoid. Isn't the solenoid bolted to the plastic splash shield in 1979? Clean all connections with a stiff wire brush.

Second, pulling the coil wouldn't stop the starter if the solenoid welded. Something doesn't make sense.

Third, After replacing the ignition switch are you sure you plugged its connector in all the way? Are you sure you didn't mix up the two little wires going to the starter solenoid?

You never gave any details about what the car was doing when it didn't start. Does it crank or do nothing? Did the solenoid click repeatedly (that's usually a dead battery or bad cable)? You may have an ignition problem (spark).

ilrt66 · Post by **ilrt66** » Sun Aug 12, 2012 8:43 pm

The solenoid is mounted to the plastic inner fender. And the wires run like you describe. One to the starter and the other to the solenoid and then to the engine block. Everything is connected as it was before.

My 69 fairlane has a heavy uncoated braided cable for a ground from the block to the unibody. I don't see were the ground is on this car.

Pulling the coil wire stalled the car out. I was running around like a madman trying to figure out how to kill it quick when the starter locked in to place. I assume it has disingauged now.

All connectors are tight and connected as they were before as far as the ignition switch goes.

Nothing happens when I turn the key. No clicking. The interior lights dim slightly when I turn the key.

All other electrical items work radio, lights etc.

jokerdanny · Post by **jokerdanny** » Sat Jul 09, 2022 11:50 am

I realize I'm replying to a post from almost a decade ago, but I'm a fairly new member with a 1979 Town Coupe and had a similar problem which I solved. I would turn the key and it would either start or I'd get absolutely nothing, not a click. Because the solenoid is attached to plastic fender well, it needs to have ground provided to it by a wire, which comes from the wiring harness. I followed the wire into the harness, peeling away the "tape" for about a foot and the wire fell out in my hand. It was originally connected to the harness with a butt connector that had corroded/rusted somehow and then failed. Sometimes the wire would touch inside and provide ground and the car would start; other times it would not touch and I would get nothing at all, not a click. Fixed the connection at least 2 years ago and haven't had one issue since then. (Back when it was acting up, letting the engine cool for an hour and a half would allow it to start. Why? Beats me. I have no theory on that other than maybe the wire got jostled as I got in and out of the car.)

TonyC · Post by **TonyC** » Sat Jul 09, 2022 5:23 pm

Very good info! I am pretty sure others on the Forum who own examples of the same period will be grateful to you for sharing this experience! I can actually visualize what you worded, because I know about bullet connectors corroding. I dealt with one recently, which was part of a larger plug harness and as such was impossible to fix. I had to concoct a bypass of that original bullet with new, separate connectors to fix the circuit. But the corroded connection I operated on was for something significantly less-important: The cigarette lighter in the right-front door.

If it hasn't been said to you yet, welcome to the Forum!

---Tony

Post by **Dan Szwarc** » Sat Jul 09, 2022 5:47 pm

jokerdanny wrote:I realize I'm replying to a post from almost a decade ago, but I'm a fairly new member with a 1979 Town Coupe and had a similar problem which I solved.

On a car from 1979, a post from 2012 is still correct and always will be.

papawayne · Post by **papawayne** » Sun Jul 10, 2022 8:19 am

There are many mysteries with these cars. When I finally got my 63 out of the garage the other day, only 4 of the six windows worked. While I was cleaning it up and making it pretty, I'd try them occasionally, but the passenger side front and the driver's side rear stubbornly refused to operate. Not intending to open up the doors to search for a cause, I took the old girl out for a ride (my wife stayed home) and, once out on the road, all 6 windows worked flawlessly. I could not make them not work! Wayne

Post by **Dan Szwarc** » Sun Jul 10, 2022 9:22 pm

That’s not a mystery. Relay and switch contacts are oxidizing due to age. Their protective platings have worn off from use during exposure. A little driving vibration is enough to make them work, but even a day of sitting can cause them to fail again. Add in the oxidation of the non-tin plated copper wiring and the total resistance in the circuits is passing the maximum threshold of operation. Eventually, every circuit may fail.

Use your car as much as possible.

rick · Post by **rick** » Sun Jul 10, 2022 10:46 pm

Glad to see that '63 out there in action plying the byways,Wayne. You were starting to make us nervous. Rick

papawayne · Post by **papawayne** » Tue Jul 12, 2022 6:04 am

Rick and Dan, I intend to get as much mileage on the car this summer as I can. It's time to start using it and time to forget about trophies from the LCOC. I'm too old now to wait for that. I did well in Hyde Park, but it's time to wear it out now. Life is short. Sadly, the little nest of other Lincoln owners in this little village have gone into hibernation. There's an idle 38, 55, 71, and 79. There is a 39 in regular use and also a 95, so with my 63 back on the road, things are looking up. I will encourage the others to get driving. Wayne

Castrosua · Post by **Castrosua** » Sun Sep 04, 2022 1:32 am

Heres a quick tip since I had this problem recently on my Crown Vic. No crank condition. Had power, everything worked except started. Mine sat for many years while I was learning how to walk again and all that joy...

The solenoid connectors were rusted to hell. So I swapped out the whole starter, recrimped new lugs on the wires, and thought it was good. Nope. Ended up doing the neutral safety switch, thought the ECU/TCM was bad, but then on a hunch...

I got jumper cables, connected the neg battery terminal to the started housing (which on 2004 era panthers is grounded through the bell housing). Started right up, no issues. Eventually forgot that on the Sport model CV, the ground strap between engine and body is not at the tail cone of the trans, but its on the block, at the rear and connects to the firewall. Mine had gone green, frayed and worn, and not enough current could go through.

Its one of those things thats so simple, you can forget lol.

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