Struggling with rear leaf spring removal (61 sedan)

[brkdncr]

I’m following the factory service manual.

The rear spring front bushing is stuck on something. It moves around but I can’t it it to pop out of the hanger. I’ve put a pry bar on it from different directions.

Does the gas tank need to be dropped to get it off the rear shackle bolts? It doesn’t look like there’s enough room for the spring to slide off the shackle bolt.

FSM directions and schematic attached for reference. Thanks in advance.

[1Bad55Chevy]

You removed both bolts that run through the shackles and the leaf spring bushings?

Typically on a leaf spring if you can't get the spring out with the bolt removed it's because the bushings have attached themselves to the shackles. You might just need to soak them with oil and disassemble the shackle if you can. Dealing with 60 year old suspension bushings is always a pain in the ass!

[TonyC]

I can vouch for that thru experience. It's been 11 years since I tackled the bushings of Frankenstein's suspension, and I can remember what an ordeal it was.

---Tony

[brkdncr]

You removed both bolts that run through the shackles and the leaf spring bushings?

Typically on a leaf spring if you can't get the spring out with the bolt removed it's because the bushings have attached themselves to the shackles. You might just need to soak them with oil and disassemble the shackle if you can. Dealing with 60 year old suspension bushings is always a pain in the ass!

Yes, the front was a single bolt. The bushing floats around pretty easily but seems to bind up when forcing it out with pry bars. I’m using jack stands but don’t have the courage to get underneath and really rip on it.

The rear doesn’t have enough room to remove the shackle. The frame and gas tank doesn’t leave much space. I don’t mind dropping it as I’m planning to replace it regardless, but didn’t want to do it right now as I don’t have a replacement ready.

[Lee]

I put new springs on mine several years ago, and while I don't remember every detail, you definitely do not have to drop the tank. I believe you can remove the spring hangers with the shackles and springs attached if need be. You can do the same thing at the front...it may be easier to figure out why the bushing is being contrary with it off the car.

One other piece of advice...order some spring shims, so you'll be ready to reassemble when you get to that point. My pinion nose needed to be adjusted several degrees after the install.

[brkdncr]

I put new springs on mine several years ago, and while I don't remember every detail, you definitely do not have to drop the tank. I believe you can remove the spring hangers with the shackles and springs attached if need be. You can do the same thing at the front...it may be easier to figure out why the bushing is being contrary with it off the car.

One other piece of advice...order some spring shims, so you'll be ready to reassemble when you get to that point. My pinion nose needed to be adjusted several degrees after the install.

Even with brand new Eaton springs at stock height? I just assumed it would be a simple remove and replace.

[Lee]

Even with brand new. Remember, there were production tolerances at time of manufacture, and that’s why the cars often had some degree of shimming, even new. I think mine had a 0.5* shim (to raise pinion nose) from the factory, and I think it needed 1.5 or 2* after the new springs.

The Eaton springs (for me) were meh, and after all the trouble, I was right at minimum ride height (and that may be partly to blame for needing different shimming). And later after they settled in, I had to add some Monroe coil over shocks to get the rear end up to spec.

Here’s a spring thread on Mark’s car that has a few helpful nuggets.
https://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/ ... 22#p416322

[papawayne]

Why do I think that I let the springs in the rear up and down on a sawhorse to get the bolts and bearings in ? Or do I have a faulty memory, which is something I live with daily? Wayne

[brkdncr]

After removing the hangers I was able to get the springs out. Not surr what was causing issues with the front since it fell out after it hit the ground. The rear shackle seems to be a bolt in the FSM but is a single piece on my vehicle.

The new spring front bushing doesn’t have a steel outer sleeve. Is this ok?

The inner sleeve I suppose I’ll need to pull out and reuse unless I can order a replacement from somewhere?

Should I use any lubricant on the rubber bushings?

Lincolnland lists both original and slightly smaller center rubber pads. Any reason I should get one over the other?

I didn’t see any shims to adjust the pinion angle. I’m going to put it all back together and remeasure.

[Lee]

After removing the hangers I was able to get the springs out. Not surr what was causing issues with the front since it fell out after it hit the ground. The rear shackle seems to be a bolt in the FSM but is a single piece on my vehicle.

The new spring front bushing doesn’t have a steel outer sleeve. Is this ok?

The inner sleeve I suppose I’ll need to pull out and reuse unless I can order a replacement from somewhere?

Should I use any lubricant on the rubber bushings?

Lincolnland lists both original and slightly smaller center rubber pads. Any reason I should get one over the other?

I didn’t see any shims to adjust the pinion angle. I’m going to put it all back together and remeasure.

I think the front bushings should have both an inner and outer sleeve, and it does require a bit of effort to press them in. I suppose if the bushing you got are tight in the spring loop, you may be ok, I really don't know.

I can't tell you the difference with the center pads. I used the ones that Eaton sold with the spring, and they seemed to be a harder durometer than stock. It took several weeks of constant tightening until I could get the clamshells to properly mate without exceeding the U-bolt torque. So maybe smaller is better?

No rubber lubricant is necessary, although it may be helpful in getting bushings in place

[brkdncr]

My Eaton kit included bushings for the front and rear, but no sleeves at all. the photo they included looks accurate to what i was provided. They also didn’t provide the center axle bushing/pads.

[TonyC]

I can remember 12 years ago when I went through a suspension overhaul the frustration of trying to remove the old bushing from the shackle. But there was a way to do it; I stumbled across the way to do it and made it happen quickly. I just can't remember now what it was.

Honestly, that was a job I told myself then that I never wanted to do again...but I suppose I should prepare myself to do it again, should the world relent and give me what it owes me–especially if what it does give me has been through a suspension rape (e.g., balloon conversion). It's doable, but not a fun job. However, good thing about it is, once done, if done right, it will not need redoing for a very long time.

One important thing to keep in mind: You must make sure the rear axle is perfectly aligned once the refreshed springs are back on. Even the slightest off-angle, I suspect, can cause strain on the rear wheel bearings. I blew one out 6 years ago, and I suspect that might have been a delayed consequence of a very slight off-angle when I did that spring surgery 6 years prior (but 3 of those years the car was not in use, as I was sent to Germany the year after I did that job). Measure the wheelbase on both sides; if one side is even a fraction of an inch off from the other, do what you need to do to even both measurements out.

---Tony